I left England in the 1980s, when the food scene in London was not topping many people’s lists. But that all changed and now modern British cuisine is some of the best food in the world with its local produce and seasonality. Of course every other international cuisine can be also found at exceptional levels. There is much to see, do, eat, and drink. Spent a couple of days, a week, a month, and there will still be leftovers. Here are my highlights from years of traveling back to one of my favorite cities.
Shop | Food
Secret Smokehouse in London Fields | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Smoked Fish
Loved by chefs, including Jamie Oliver, Secret Smokehouse is one of two smokehouses in London with PGI status for their London Cure smoked salmon, trout, kippers, and haddock. Stop in on a Saturday for a bagel with smoked salmon, cream cheese, and pickles and watch the local running clubs jog by. Or just pick up pre-packed sliced fish, pâtés, or a fish pie to take home.
Canned Seafood
In the depths of Borough Market is a stall focused on tins of fish. The Tinned Fish Market offers a delightful range of seafood from the British shores and further afield.
Cheesemongers
If you love cheese, there are a couple of London cheese institutions. Neal’s Yard Dairy has a number of shops around the city (the original location is in Covent Garden) and this cheesemonger specializes in aging and selling British and Irish cheeses. Paxton & Whitfield Ltd opened in 1742 as cheese stall, received its first royal warrant in 1850, and now has two shops in London as well as Bath and Canterbury. A visit to the shop on Jermyn Street affords the opportunity to buy some high quality cheese and stroll along the street known for fancy men’s clothing. Or as Winston Churchill is quoted as saying on their website: “A gentleman buys his hats at Locks, his shoes at Lobbs, his shirts at Harvie and Hudson, his suits at Huntsman and his cheese at Paxton & Whitfield.”
Butchers
Among the stalls along Broadway Market sits Hill & Szrok, a family-run butcher some really beautiful premium meat. Browse the window and ask your butcher for advice. Another small, family-run butcher in the east of London is Perry’s, selling British meat, bacon, and sausages. Known for their sausages rolls (the New York Times called them the Rolls Royce of sausage rolls), The Ginger Pig in Borough Market is also a specialty butcher.
Fishmongers
At Steve Hatt Fishmongers, queue up outside along the shop and inspect all the gorgeous seafood you have the option to buy. Fin and Flounder is small in square footage, but large on selection.
Department Stores
The London department stores which have fantastic food departments are the classics. Fortnum & Mason’s food and wine department in the basement is wall to wall high end and luxury all wrapped up in beautiful packaging. You might not do a whole grocery shop here, but it’s well worth it for specialties or gifts to bring home. The food hall at Selfridges is a combination cafe, restaurant, food shop — if you are clothes shopping, pop in for some nourishment. For lotions, oils, and fragrances, don’t miss the French brand, Officine Universelle Buly located on the first floor. Of course, Harrods will be on lots of lists and the food hall is worth the trip alone.
Bakeries
Dusty Knuckle Bakery | ©Nick C. Bumstead
The Dusty Knuckle Bakery
A little out of the way in Dalston, but this is such a fun and tasty spot for sweet treats, savory breads, and fantastic sandwiches. In addition, it’s a community initiative helping youth offenders with training and job placement. The Sambal Pork Sarnie and Spring Vegetable with Goat Curd Sarnie did not disappoint.
E5 Bakehouse
Some of the best loaves in London and the queue out the door to prove it. Enjoy London Fields and stroll up Mentmore Terrace, avoiding the throng of joggers from the local running clubs, and prepare yourself to be tempted by everything, including the Hackney Wild, Black Sesame Financier, Brownie, Chocolate Chunk Cookie. They also have books, wine, beer, and other provisions.
Pophams
Several locations with the original on Popham Street in Islington offering perfectly laminated, flaky croissants and creamy espresso. Everyone recommends the Bacon & Maple Croissant Swirl. Pophams Home is next door and sells beautifully curated home goods and pantry goods. Remember your trip to London with an espresso cup, a jar of Pophams jam or chutney.
Gerrard Street in Chinatown | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Kowloon Bakery
Wandering around Chinatowns in any city is always an experience. Gawp at the window display at Kowloon Bakery and pop in to buy a mochi cake and some glutinous rice.
St. John Bakery
Eccles cakes, doughnuts, bread, granola, cookies, and brownies to go from St. John’s two bakery locations.
Shop | Design
Paul Smith on Albemarle Street | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Paul Smith No. 9 Albemarle Street + Paul Smith Westbourne House
Shop for clothes and get inspired for your house and apartment. Paul Smith’s stores always contain his classic style of men’s and women’s clothing, but some also display unique gifts, art, and antiques. At No. 9 Albemarle Street, the basement floor is dedicated to vintage furniture and art. The Westbourne House shop in Notting Hill has a room filled with both Paul’s antiques and other vintage furniture.
Labour & Wait
Started in Shoreditch and now with multiple locations, this old school hardware store not only useful, but elegant and utilitarian products and clothing.
MagCulture
Print media is definitely not dead as has been displayed by MagCulture in Clerkenwell since 2015. Browse the beautiful selection in what feels like a gallery for magazines.
Alfies Antique Market
London is not exactly short of antique shops on from the high end to the low end. This multi-floor antique mall is filled with nearly 100 vendors selling everything from paintings to glassware to miniature collectibles. Don’t miss the Cupio Gallery on the first floor mezzanine for Italian mid-century design, including a wonderful selection of Fornasettis.
Chiltern Street
What used to be a quiet street in Marylebone became a mecca for chic, quiet, elegance with shops like Sunspel for clothing, Monocle Cafe for coffee, Shreeji Newsagents for magazines, Trunk Clothiers for menswear, Cadenhead’s for independent whisky bottlings, as well as an outpost of Labour & Wait.
twentytwentyone
Celebrating 20th and 21st-century design with furniture, lighting, and accessories that will both spark inspiration and desire.
London Undercover Umbrellas
The one thing you are normally guaranteed to need on a trip to London… an umbrella. This shop has two locations on Lamb’s Conduit Street and in Spitalfields. Functional, elegant, and beautiful, these umbrellas will make you look good in the rain.
Shop | Clothing & Design
Paper Mache Tiger | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Alex Eagle Studio
Slightly intimidating from its exterior, but elegant and chic on the inside. Wander round and admire the ceramics, vintage books, jewelry, beauty products, and clothing.
Paper Mache Tiger
Cool and fresh with a mixture of fashionable clothing and design.
Margaret Howell
Refined British style for men, women, and the home. The shop on Wigmore Street in Marylebone is both a clothing shop, but also feels like a design gallery.
Patterns and style at Liberty of London | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Liberty of London
A true icon of the London design stores from the print and pattern collections to the building itself. In the spring and summer of 2025, Liberty celebrated 150 years with a show dedicated to their patterns.
Original Fibres
Casual and stylish British menswear made from low-impact, natural fabrics (linen and wool).
Coal Drops Yard
You could look at this newly created shopping area just north of King’s Cross as a modern mall, but it’s well designed and is filled with shops actually worth visiting. It surely doesn’t look anything like its previous incarnation as a rail warehouse. Be tempted by chocolate from Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse, candles from Earl of East, clothing from Paul Smith, designs from the Conran Shop and Tom Dixon. It’s full of pretty things and an architecturally beautiful space.
Shop | Stationary
Choosing Keeping
Making the stationary nerds (like me) happy with wide selection of pens, paper, cards, and nostalgic products.
Marby & Elm
Whimsical and cute, but also well designed and handmade, this fun shop on Exmouth Market well entertain you with stationary.
Shop | Markets
The Columbia Road Flower Market on Sundays | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Columbia Road Flower Market
A little crowded and very popular, but definitely worth the visit. On a summer Sunday, the Columbia Road Flower Market is quite the spectacle. You can shop for flowers, pop into the wide variety of shops, sip an espresso, slurp on some oysters, nosh on some cakes and bagels. Get there slightly early or it can feel like a bit of a frenzy. If you need provisions, don’t miss Hackney Essentials for E5 Bakery bread, wine, chocolate, preserves. For vintage finds, H.M. Jones is a fun little vintage shop, Vintage Heaven for glassware and homewares, Glitterati for vintage cut glass. For records and wine, check out Idle Moments.
Broadway Market
The Saturday market offers stalls of delicious food with origins around the world and a chance to shop the brick and mortar shops on the street. Fuel up on an espresso from Climpson & Sons Café, then hit up Shrine to the Vine for wine; Hill & Szrok for meat; Fin and Flounder for seafood; Artwords Bookshop, The Broadway Bookshop, and Donlon Books for reading inspiration. Finish up with a leisurely walk along the canal.
Ridley Road Market | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Ridley Road Market
This market has been operating in Dalston since the 1880s. What started as a more traditional market has now become a true expression of the melting pot of the local community. Stop at Ararat Bread for Middle Eastern-style flatbreads.
Shop | Wine & Booze
Shrine to the Vine
The wine shop from the team behind Noble Rot, selling a broad range, but very well curated selection of wine.
Hedonism Wines
A ridiculous breadth and depth of wine and liquor is on display on the two floors of this beautiful, modern shop in Mayfair. If you are in the market for Romanée-Conti, or Yquem from 1831, a thirty year old Arbeg, or one of their 200 bottle selection of gins, this is your place for unattainable rarities.
The Vintage House
A fun little shop on Old Compton Street in Soho that’s been around since the 1940s and selling over 1,300 whiskies of many vintages.
Berry Bros. & Rudd
This is about as old school as it gets in London with regards to wine shops. They’ve been in business since the 17th century and the oldest wine and spirits shop in the UK. The creaking wooden floors and vintage bottles are there to prove it.
The Whisky Exchange
Three shops across the city with a deep selection of whiskies and other spirits. Pick up a unique whisky from an independent bottler.
People's Wine Dalston
A fab little wine shop in Dalston (and on Roman Road) and also a wine bar with a focused selection of artisanal, organic and biodynamic French wines. If they still have some, the Domaine Foret Poulsard from the Jura is worth it.
Eat | Lunch
Cold Roast Gloucester Old Spot & Celeriac at St. John Restaurant | ©Nick C. Bumstead
St. John Restaurant
What started on St. John street, Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail mecca, now has three locations all with the same focus on British nose-to-tail cuisine, but each with a slightly different vibe. Still serving some of the best and highest quality British food in London.
Rochelle Canteen
One of the best lunches in London that is hidden behind plain sight in school yard. Press the buzzer outside the Boys’ gate and take your seat in the former bike shed that is Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s (wife of Fergus) restaurant. Modern British cooking with respect for the seasons and the ingredients.
Gymkhana + The Ambassadors Clubhouse + Trishna
London has been known for its Indian food for a long, long time. Gymkhana now has two Michelin stars, is pretty pricey, and is tougher to get a reservation, but lunch there is a fantastic experience. The Ambassadors Clubhouse and Trishna are the newer restaurants from the team. Ambassadors Club celebrates the food and drink from Punjab in a beautifully designed space off Regent Street. The food is impressive and the service operates like a well-oiled machine. Trishna is in Marylebone and takes on Indian Coastal Cuisine.
The Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room | ©Nick C. Bumstead
The Pie Hole / The Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room
A walkup window that overlooks a gorgeous pie making kitchen with marble worktop, copper molds, and chefs working the dough. A whole array of pies are on offer from modern creations like: Poached Lobster & Shellfish and Hong Kong BBQ Pork Puff; to classics like Hand-Raised Pork Pie, Sausage Roll, and Norfolk Black Chicken & Wild Mushroom Pie.
Sweetings
A very old school English seafood restaurant (an original Victorian Fish and Oyster bar) that mostly serves city types, but the food makes up for rubbing elbows with bankers. Start with something smoked (eel, trout, cod roe, or salmon) and save room for some Spotted Dick, Sticky Toffee Pudding, or Baked Jam Roll.
Prawn on the Lawn
Fresh seafood delivered daily from Cornwall and Devon and then artfully plated for your delight. They also have two restaurants in Padstow.
Marksman
Much loved and touted for their Sunday lunch. And much more than a pub. Book ahead and enjoy the ultimate British tradition of Sunday lunch in the quirky, modern design of the upstairs dining room.
Andrew Edmonds
An old school Soho restaurant serving modern European food. They still have hand-written menus that change daily and seasonally. Dig into the wine list to uncover some well-priced vintage bottles.
Kinoko Nametake (marinated mushrooms) at Koya | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Koya
All the menu options at Koya are excellent, but the best move is to show up at 11:45am for an early lunch and order off the breakfast menu. Everything feels very thought out and intentional, just as it should in a Japanese restaurant. The Japanese Breakfast comes with grilled fish, rice, miso soup, and pickles. And if that not enough, definitely order the marinated mushrooms (Kinoko Nametake).
BAO
The bao buns are perfectly soft and fluffy with flavorful fillings like fried chicken, classic pork, daikon, and prawns. The Taiwanese Fried Chicken Nuggets are so good, you’ll place a second order. There are seven locations around the city, but the Borough Market location, in addition to its dining room, has a walk-up window to place your order. Enjoy your buns watching the crowds explore the market.
Sông Quê Café
The nickname for this section of Kingsland Road in Shoreditch is known as ‘Pho Mile’ and Sông Quê Café delivers on pho and other traditional Vietnamese dishes that won’t break the bank.
See | Sites
The Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Modern & Brutalist Architecture
Resulting from the post-war rebuilding period, there are many magnificent Brutalist buildings around London, including: The Barbican, a large residential complex that is the icon of Brutalist architecture in London; Trellick Tower, designed by Ernő Goldfinger, defines the Notting Hill skyline, and was saved from neglect in the 80s and 90s; National Theatre, designed by Denys Lasdun, opened on the South Bank in 1976, and still putting on an array of performing arts.
Have a weekend stroll around Hampstead Heath with stunning views of the city and then walk passed 2 Willow Road, designed by Ernö Goldfinger in 1939, and is one of the few modernist homes open to the public. Then head over to the Isokon Flats and Gallery, a Bauhaus gem in Belsize Park, where Walter Gropius, Marcel Breuer, László Moholy-Nagy, and Agatha Christie lived.
The Classics
Centuries old, impressive, historical buildings and monuments are abound in London: St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, The Mall, Horse Guards Parade, Tower of London, Churchill War Rooms, Tower Bridge, Royal Observatory Greenwich, The Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens, Royal Albert Hall. If you love your history, any and all of the sites will impress.
Battersea Power Station
Decommissioned in the 70s and 80s, this coal-fired power station was a bit of an eyesore on the south bank on the Thames. After years of debate, analysis, and disrepair, finally became a combination of apartments, retail stores, and restaurants that opened in 2022. The power station is on the cover of Pink Floyd's 1977 album Animals.
See | Art & Galleries
Sir John Soane's Museum | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Sir John Soane's Museum
Walking through the front door into the Sir John Soane’s house in Holborn, you almost expect him to return home at any minute. It’s been preserved and mostly untouched for 200 years. And it’s a jam-packed treasure trove full of collected sculptures, artwork, and Pharaoh Seti’s sarcophagus in the basement. He was one of the 19th century’s finest architects, known for the Bank of England (but his work has mostly been destroyed), Royal Hospital Chelsea, and the Dulwich Picture Gallery, which was the first purpose-built public art gallery in Britain. Don’t rush yourself and don’t miss an inch of the museum.
The Wallace Collection
Crammed to the gills with masterpieces spanning eras and geography: painting, sculpture, furniture, arms, armor, porcelain. All this culture may make you hungry and thirsty and thank goodness for the tranquil courtyard restaurant and café.
The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A)
More often than not on a visit to London, the V&A has an exhibit that draws my attention: Bowie, Fashioning Masculinities, The Great Mughals, Cartier. Check what’s on and book ahead. Can’t wait to visit the new V&A East Storehouse on our next visit.
The National Portrait Gallery
Such a gem of a museum, whether you are viewing the permanent collection or special exhibits. It’s like peering into the eyes of famous people from centuries ago. Recently the The Face Magazine was a fantastic insight into the music and fashions of the 80s and 90s.
The National Gallery
With wall to wall iconic artwork from every century, you could probably spend all day exploring (and eating and drinking). I love the walk from the Central Hall to George Stubbs’s Whistlejacket taking a right to the early Impressionists to the Post-Impressionists.
The Tate Modern
When the Tate Modern opened in 2000 in the converted Bankside Power Station building, the South Bank got an artistic jolt in the arm. Befitting the large industrial setting, the museum is known for its contemporary exhibits. Use the Turbine Hall entrance to fully experience the scale of the building.
Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art
Large museums can have their impact (see the Tate Modern above), but sometimes a small, intimate museum is just what you need. Explore Islington, have lunch at Prawn on the Lawn, and dessert in the garden at the Estorick. Showing exclusively Italian artists (including Modigliani and Di Chirico) at this small gallery over a few floors.
Eat | Dinner
Langoustines & Croquettes at Noble Rot Lamb’s Conduit | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Noble Rot
Not an under-the-radar choice, but lives up to the long list of recommendations for both the wine list and the food. Exploring the wine list can take a while because there are many, many gems on there, but the reward is a fab bottle of wine. And the food menu will excite the taste buds as well.
Brat
Located on the second floor in ultra-hip Shoreditch, but the vide inside is all Basque. While you check-in for your table cast your gaze at the row of Basque Burnt Cheesecakes waiting to be devoured (if you still have room). The wood-fired cooking is what rules at Brat. Definitely start with the Grilled Bread with Anchovy and then pick out some of your favorite seafood that will be given the fire treatment.
Smoking Goat Shoreditch
Modern Thai barbecue from the Brat team. Prepare for the spicy, beautifully balanced spicy. Start with the renowned chicken wings and move on to as many dishes that will satisfy you. The cocktails are fun and the wine list is short, but perfect for the food.
Green Asparagus, Walnut, Corra Linn and Sorrel at Brawn | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Brawn
They’ve been open for 15 years now, but it still feels like an undiscovered neighborhood gem. One of early birds in London’s natural-wine scene and the wine list is still as focused as ever. The handmade pastas are a highlight, but as are all the other nose-to-tail dishes.
Murano
Chef Angela Hartnett is a force of the London restaurant scene with her Michelin-starred Murano and four of the more casual Cafe Murano restaurants. Murano is elegant, refined, and calm, but not overly prissy and fancy. You feel taken care of without being fussed over. The food is elevated, yet still comforting Italian. But befitting its Mayfair location, there is a price tag that accompanies this level of dining.
A Bit Further Afield
The View from Richmond Hill | ©Nick C. Bumstead
Richmond & Kew
Take the District tube line out to Richmond to explore the land of Ted Lasso. Before the TV show, Richmond was founded in 1501 when King Henry VII built Richmond Palace. Walk the lanes of shops and pubs; sit and enjoy the world going by on Richmond Green; take in a play at Richmond Theatre; spend hours exercising with the deer in Richmond Park with the beautiful Isabella Plantation. In and around Richmond, there are many historical buildings and gardens to see: Ham House, Strawberry Hill House & Garden, York House Gardens, Marble Hill, Kew Gardens, Kew Palace, Syon House. The Royal Botanical Gardens Kew is a personal favorite with the Great Pagoda, the Victorian Glasshouses, the giant waterlilies in the Waterlily House, the Princess of Wales Conservatory — keep your eye out for peacocks parading their feathers.
Lunch at The Britannia Pub, serving the classics. Also enjoy a pint at The Victoria Inn (the smallest pub in Richmond) on your way up or down the hill to the park. For fancier fare, check out chef Tom Fraser’s seafood cooking at Scott’s.
