A Tour of Ireland & Northern Ireland

March 3, 2026

Intro

What this guide isn’t: a tour of the best pubs of Ireland. We did really enjoy some pints in some delightful pubs, but that generally is not our scene.

Just The Facts

Text

The Route

A few days in Dublin, followed by a clockwise tour of Ireland. We missed the middle, but covered the dramatic coastline of Ireland and Northern Ireland.

The Guide

Dublin

Dublin is the most obvious starting point based on the flights, etc. We chose to not rent a car for the first few days in Dublin, and then head back to the airport to rent the car. Obviously, there are some pros and cons to both decisions. We also probably spent one day too many in Dublin relative to the rest of the trip. Not that they were wasted, because it’s a great city to explore.

Stay

We stayed in an Airbnb just off St. Stephen’s Green, which was an ideal, centrally-located spot for walking all around the city. An Airbnb affords you the chance to have a chill cup of coffee and breakfast in the morning, relax before cocktails and dinner, and do some laundry before heading out on the roadtrip. We look at staying at The Shelbourne, The Westbury (which also has The Sidecar, well-known cocktail bar), and The Merrion.

Day One

Get settled in after your flight and have a more relaxing afternoon. We settled into our Airbnb and strolled around the Trinity, St. Stephen’s Green, central area where there’s some great strolling and shopping to be done. For fuel, pop into Kaph, the perfect little spot for a cortado and a financier as a quick break from all the good shopping in the neighborhood. Just along Drury Street and Exchequer Street there is Industry & Co with multiple shops with a focus on home, kids, women’s clothing, as well as a cafe; Irish Design Shop that feels much more modern and interesting that some of the other Irish-focused shops; Fallon & Byrne, a fancy food and wine shop and restaurant with a lovely array of local and international, fresh, prepared, and grocery items, and perfect for picking up some provisions for the Airbnb or some food souvenirs to take home; Costume, for elegant women’s clothing. If it’s raining, stop into Powerscourt Centre, grab a bite or cup of coffee and stroll around the shops, checking out Article for housewares, Muireann B Vintage in the 59 Collective for a very well curated selection of vintage clothing. Nearby is Stable of Ireland, a beautiful shop taking Irish traditions of textiles and creating stylish, modern designs.

If you need some Irish booze or wine, Celtic Whiskey Shop & Wines on the Green has a deep selection of Irish whiskeys and other spirits and very knowledgeable staff; James J. Fox has been selling whiskey and tobacco to Dubliners since 1881 and offers an array of selection of whiskey and cigars, at every price level, and their owned branded 100ml bottles are worth buying; The Corkscrew Wine & Spirit Merchants, next door to the The Westbury Hotel and Stable of Ireland, is worth a stop too.

Dinner

Trinity College Library | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Day Two

If you are up early and are looking for breakfast out, a couple of classics include: Gallagher’s Boxty, known for the traditional Irish potato bread, and Keoghs Cafe, where they’ve been serving Dubliners early morning breakfast for 30 years. Book ahead early for The Book of Kells & Trinity College Library. Everything in Ireland is an “experience” and cynically, it can feel like a bit of con to charge more, but the Book of Kells and the Trinity College Library are iconic visits for a reason. The upfront education provides a good introduction to the a 9th-century, 1,200-year-old illuminated manuscript, which is a true masterpiece. After admiring the book, the walk into the old library is equally stunning. They are currently renovating all the books, but that does not diminish how impressive the room is — it’s one of the best libraries in the world for a reason.

Then walk along Temple Bar, past the classic Temple Bar, which is probably the most recommended pub in Dublin, and check out Indigo & Cloth for a coffee to energize for shopping the two floors of clothing and design, highlighting unique Irish and international designers. Scout is just down the street from Indigo & Cloth, this clothing and lifestyle shop promotes Irish-designed clothing and homewares.

For the history buff, Christ Church Cathedral was founded in 1030 as a Viking church and in the former heart of medieval Dublin with historical curiosities abound. Two great cafés near the next historical stop of St. Patrick’s Cathedral are The Fumbally and Two Pups. The Fumbally has a beautiful artsy, bohemian vibe that’s chill and comforting — definitely get the Fumbally Eggs or a sandwich on some amazing bread. Check out the market section on your way out — it might double how much your spend their though, because it’s an impressive selection of local producers.

Marsh’s Library and St. Patrick’s Cathedral are around the corner from each other and both worth a visit. The cathedral is Ireland’s largest cathedral and the home of the Church of Ireland. Look up at the towering ceilings, look down for the gorgeously tiled floors, and look around at the stained-glass windows, ornate wooden carvings, and stone sculptures. Marsh’s Library was the first public library in Ireland and dates back to 1707, The interior has been beautifully preserved and feels much it did back in the 1700s. Notice the metal cages at the end of the library where they used to lock readers in to prevent theft.

After history in buildings, walk down Francis Street for some antique shopping.

Day Three

14 Henrietta Street Gallery book ahead for a guided tour of the history of thiis beautiful Georgian house, which started as a home for the aristocracy in the 1700s in and finished as a tenement building as late as the 1970s. Well worth the tour to get a history not just of the house, but of the history of Dublin and Ireland.

Jennifer Slattery Irish linen and embroidery in a former butcher shop in Smithfield. Stop in before your reservation at Fish Shop.

National Gallery of Ireland entrance to the permanent collection is free, so take as little or as long as you want to admire the mixture of old and new artwork and architecture.

Eat & Drink

There is some really good grub to be had in Ireland and Dublin did not disappoint. Since we opted to stay in an Airbnb instead of a hotel, we didn’t venture out for breakfast, but a couple of classics were on my list if we had: Gallagher’s Boxty (known for the traditional Irish potato bread) and Keoghs Cafe (they’ve been serving Dubliners early morning breakfast for 30 years).

Two great cafés near St. Patrick’s Cathedral are The Fumbally and Two Pups. The Fumbally has a beautiful artsy, bohemian vibe that’s chill and comforting — definitely get the Fumbally Eggs or a sandwich on some amazing bread. Check out the market section on your way out — it might double how much your spend their though, because it’s an impressive selection of local producers.

For lunch or dinner, Fish Shop is a must and booking is imperative — it’s tiny and always filled. If you are slightly early for lunch, you’d miss the subtle signage, but you won’t miss the line outside. If you are early, pop into Jennifer Slattery’s delightful textiles boutique in a former butcher shop. The food and wine list at Fish Shop is not to be missed.

Loose Canon is a wine bar / shop that serves tasty toasties and natural wine. We escaped the rain and popped in for lunch. We enjoyed a ham and cheese toastie; a harissa cheese toastie; with a glass of Pierre Frick Auxerrois orange wine.

Dinner at Library Street with marinated Turbot head, pork chop, cabbage | ©Nick C. Bumstead

For dinner, Row Wines is a “a hip wine, food and vinyl proposition.” The wine list is natural and organically focused with a fun mix of chillable reds, orange, rosé, red, and white wines that pair beautifully with their snacks and shareable plates. The Connemara oyster with cucumber and ponzu was fab, as was the Kilkee crab rösti, and the gambas. Order bread to mop up all the shrimp juices. The focus at Mister S is live fire cooking with a pretty good wine list. Library Street was a highlight of our Dublin stop. Any menu that has marinated turbot head on it is going to get me excited. As was Comet, an elegant calm restaurant next to the Royal Irish Automobile Club. The Quail roasted on toast with Vin Jaune sauce was recommended by the waitress and was a delight, as was the bottle of Chantereves Bourgogne Blanc.

Coffee

I loved visiting Indigo & Cloth for many reasons (also see the shopping section), but on our second visit, it was pouring with rain outside and we nipped in for some relief. It feels like they really care about their customers.

Kaph is the perfect little spot for a cortado and a financier as a quick break from all the good shopping in the neighborhood.

Shopping | Style & Design

Stable of Ireland taking Irish traditions of textiles and creating stylish designs.

Indigo & Cloth grab a coffee to energize for shopping the two floors of clothing and design, highlighting unique Irish and international designers.

Scout just down the street from Indigo & Cloth, this clothing and lifestyle shop promotes Irish-designed clothing and homewares.

Industry & Co multiple locations with a focus on home, kids, women’s clothing, as well as a cafe. All within a short distance of each other. If you buy some clothing, you get a free cup of coffee at the cafe.

Jennifer Slattery Irish linen and embroidery in a former butcher shop in Smithfield. Stop in before your reservation at Fish Shop.

Irish Design Shop there’s a lot of Irish-focused shops, but takes a more modern vibe over two stories.

Peterson of Dublin Tobacco and pipe shop open since 1874 — old school, but beautifully designed. Even if you don’t smoke a pipe (and who really does these days), they have a fun tote bag.

Hodges Figgis Ireland’s oldest bookshop (established in 1768) and the travel, cooking, fiction sections have an excellent focus on Irish authors.

Francis Street in The Liberties neighborhood is a perfect afternoon stroll to see all the antiques shops.

Shopping | Food & Drink

Fallon & Byrne a lovely array of local and international, fresh, prepared, and grocery items. Not cheap, but minimally worth a quick tour. Excellent selections of salts, coffee, chocolate, and canned seafood. Perfect for picking up some provisions for the Airbnb or some food souvenirs to take home.

Sheridan’s Cheesemongers one of the premier destinations for Irish cheese with many locations in Dublin and around Ireland. Get their expert input, ask for a taste, and pick up some of their own branded condiments to pair with the cheese, such as the chutney for cheese, onion marmalade, or tomato relish.

Celtic Whiskey Shop & Wines on the Green a deep selection of Irish whiskeys and other spirits. Get some guidance before picking out a bottle.

James J. Fox selling whiskey and tobacco to Dubliners since 1881. A deep selection of whiskey and cigars, they also have a house brand. For a quick hotel room sip or a easier way to take home a bottle, check out the 100ml options of Irish whiskey aged in different casks.

The Corkscrew Wine & Spirit Merchants next door to the The Westbury Hotel and Stable of Ireland with a good selection of wines and spirits.

Museums & Sites

The Book of Kells & Trinity College Library everything in Ireland is an “experience” and cynically, it can feel like a bit of con to charge more, but the Book of Kells and the Trinity College Library are iconic visits for a reason. The upfront education provides a good introduction to the a 9th-century, 1,200-year-old illuminated manuscript, which is a true masterpiece. After admiring the book, the walk into the old library is equally stunning. They are currently renovating all the books, but that does not diminish how impressive the room is — it’s one of the best libraries in the world for a reason.

National Gallery of Ireland entrance to the permanent collection is free, so take as little or as long as you want to admire the mixture of old and new artwork and architecture.

Stay

Heading Out of Town | Dún Laoghaire, Sandycove, Dalkey, Killiney

Shop in Monkstown:

- Seagreen

- Salt Cafe

- Avoca Market

Drive to Sandycove

Sandycove:

- Shop in Sandycove (64 Wine for wine, Cavistons Food Emporium for Irish Smoked Salmon)

- 64 Wine

- Domaine de L'Ecu, 'Janus', Chardonnay, Loire, 2022 €31,00

- Marie-Pierre Chevassu-Fassenet 2021 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay €33.25

- See: Forty Foot Public Bathing Pool + James Joyce Tower

Visit: Dillon’s Park

Drive through Dalkey & Killiney (Fancy Neighborhoods)

Heading South to Hook Lighthouse

Lunch: The Grain Store at Killruddery

Visit: Killruddery Gardens & House

Shop @ Bread 41 in Greystones

Drive down coast to Hook Lighthouse

Heading West to Cork

Breakfast at the Seagull Bakery in Dunmore East | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Hookhead to Dunmore

Breakfast @ Seagull Bakery

Walk: Dunmore East Cliff Walk

Visit: Ardmore

See: Ardmore Round Tower

Shop: Ardmore Pottery & Gallery

The Midleton Experience & Shop | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Shop: Midleton Distillery Experience (bought two minis of Redbreast Lustau Edition)

Drive to Cork

Bailed on Marina Market (chaos)

Stay: The River Lee Hotel, Cork

Drinks: Beamish Stout @ The Oval Pub

Heading West to Kenmare

Cork to Blarney Castle

Visit: Blarney Castle

Drive: to Kinsale

Fish & Chips at Fisherman’s Catch in Kinsale | ©Robin Dorian

Lunch at Fisherman’s Catch Stand in Kinsale

- Haddock & Chips

Drive: to Skibbereen to Ballydehob to Mizen Head

On to Kenmare.

Stay: Park Hotel Kenmare

Park Hotel Kenmare

Cocktails @ Park Hotel Kenmare

- Nutty Old Fashioned with Irish Whiskey

- Pomegranate Negroni

Dinner: P.F. McCarthy’s Pub in Kenmare

- Hearty Seafood Soup

- Prawn Skillet

- Veggie Rice Bowl

- Guinness

Wild Atlantic Way | Ring of Kerry

Ring of Kerry to Tarbert Ferry to Killimer via Kilrush, Kilkee to Lahinch.

Snack Shop: Dodi Cafe

Blood Pudding Sausage Roll
Bakewell Slice

Wine Shop @ Dodi Stockroom

Foradori 2024 Manzoni Bianco

Drive Through: Liscannor

Shop: The Burren Smokehouse

Smoked Salmon with Seaweed

Shop @ Ekotree Cashmere & Visitor Centre Ireland

Robin Merino Wool Sweater

Drive Through: Doolin

Seacliff Cottage in Doolin | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Stay: Seacliff Cottage

Hiking Tour of The Burren with Tony Kirby | ©Nick C. Bumstead

9:30am - 12:30pm: Coast of Burren Guided 3 Hour Hike with Tony Kirby

Visit Flaggy Shore + Ballyvaughn

Lunch at Linnane’s Lobster in Ballyvelaghan | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Lunch: Linnane's Lobster Bar

6 Flaggy Shore No. 2 Oysters
Fresh whole Tiger Prawns in Garlic & Chili Butter
Prawn Sandwich (Atlantic Prawns on Soda Bread with Marie Rose Sauce and Salad)

Shop: The Burren Perfumery

Visit: Cliffs of Moher (go left at visitors center)

Stay: Seacliff Cottage

7pm: Dinner @ Homestead Cottage

• ⁃ Wine: Montbourgeau 2019 L’Etoile Chardonnay

Seacliff Cottage to Galway via Gregans Castle Hotel (1hr 27 minutes)

Lunch in Galway at Ard Bia

- Gubbeen chorizo hash, poached eggs, chipotle aioli , sourdough

Coffee: Espresso @ Coffeewerk + Press

Shop: Kindf_olk + The Tweed Project

Drive to Black Rock Diving Boards

Shop: Sullivan’s Country Store (6am - 6pm)

Drive: Dog’s Bay Beach + Clifden

Shop in Clifden: The Whitehorn Gallery (11am - 5pm) + Connemara Hamper (9am - 5pm)

Stay: Ballynahinch Castle Hotel (Check-in: 3:30pm)

3:30pm: Walk the grounds of the hotel

6pm: Dinner @ The Fisherman’s Pub @ Ballynahinch Castle Hotel

- 4 x Ballinakill Bay oysters, Micil poitin mignonette

- Grilled prawns, garlic, tomato and chilli, toasted sourdough

- Ballynahinch Estate venison burger, red onion marmalade, Cashel Blue, chunky fries

- Cod with grilled leeks, celeriac, smoked trout caviar & herb butter sauce

- Wine: Roka’ Liam & Sinead Cabot 2022 Furmint Štajerska Slovenia Podravje + Glass of Bordeaux

2/21

Breakfast @ Ballynahinch Castle

- Classic Irish Breakfast

- Porridge

- Toast & Marmalade

Ballynahinch Castle to Killary Fjord Viewpoint to Westport to Achill Island

Achill Island:

- Keel Beach

- Keem Beach

- Achill Island Kitchen Take Away @ Dooagh

- Almond & Orange Cake

Drive to Downpatrick Head

- Hike to the head

Drive to Ballina past Knocknarea to Strandhill to see Shell’s Cafe and the waves.

Stay: The Address Hotel Sligo (Check-in: 3pm)

7:30pm: Dinner @ Otto Pizzeria & Wine Bar

- Cocktail: Negroni

- West coast crab, potato rosti, pickled fennel, green apple

- Roast squash, Toon’s Bridge straciatella, radicchio leaves,toasted nuts, aged balsamic

- Ricotta & Parma Ham Pizza with (no tomato sauce) whipped ricotta, 18-month DOP parma ham, confit tomatoes, roast garlic, grana padano

- Wine: Barbera

Walk around Sligo

Sligo to Donegal

Drumcliff
Classiebawn Castle
Castle Classiebawn Viewpoint
Mullaghmore to Watch Surfers
Bishops Pool
Rossnowlagh Beach
Donegal

Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) | ©Robin Dorian

Visit / Drive

Muckros Head
Sliabh Liag Viewing Platform
Slieve League Hike
Silver Strand Beach
Glencolumbkille

Shop in Donegal

Kavanagh's SuperValu Donegal

Stay: Lough Eske AirBnB

Dinner: Lough Eske AirBnB

Cocktails: Gin Martini with Echlinville Irish Post Still Gin, Dolin Dry Vermouth, Lemon Twist + Kinnegar Limeburner Pale Ale
Snacks: Mr. Filbert’s Mexican Street Chili Mixed Nuts + O’Donnells Ballymaloe Relish & Cheddar Cheese Flavor Crisp
Organic Irish Smoked Salmon on Toasted Hugo’s Bakery Country Loaf with Butter & Lemon Juice
Cashel Blue Cheese on Toasted Hugo’s Bakery Country Loaf with Sheridans Chutney for Cheese

• ⁃ Wine: Foradori 2024 Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco

2/23

Hann Hats in Donegal | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Shop in Donegal:

- Hanna Hats (bought hat & soap)

Drive around Donegal:

- Crohy Head Sea Arch

- Bad Eddie

- Horn Head / Napoleonic Watch Tower

- Briac. House

- Downings

Shop:

- McNutt of Donegal

Drive / Visit / Hike

- Murder Hole Beach (Hike)

- Fanad Head Lighthouse

Letterkenny

Stay: Radisson Blu Letterkenny

Dinner: Letterkenny @ Yellow Pepper

- Pil Pil Shrimp with Focaccia

- Rump of lamb with champ mash

- Grilled John Dory

- Pint of Murphy’s

- Glass of Kinnegar Limeburner Pale Ale

- Glass of French CabernetYellow Pepper

Walk up Main Street

2/24

Buffet Breakfast @ Radisson Blu Hotel

Northern Ireland

Letterkenny to Belfast

- Past Londonderry

Visit:

- Dunluce Castle

Giant’s Causeway

- Giant's Causeway

Lunch @ Bothy White Park Bay

- Bothy Sarnie

- Pesto Chicken Sandwich

- Almond Slice

Drive to Belfast

Northern Ireland | Belfast

Stay: Merchant Hotel

6:30pm: Cocktails & Snacks @ Bert’s Jazz Bar

- Irish Old Fashioned

- Japanese Highball

- Far East Side

- Duck & Orange Liver Parfait

- Halloumi

8:00pm: Dinner @ Mourne Seafood Bar

- Natural Carlingfod Oysters

- Peel & Eat Langoustines

- Smoked & Cured Salmon Rillettes

- Sweet & Sour Kilkeel Crab Claws

- Glasses of Alvarinho

9:00pm: Cocktails @ The Merchant Bar

- Orange Cocktail (Redbreast Lustau Whiskey, Lustau Vermouth, Green Chartreuse)

- Fresh Grapefruit & Lemon Sherbet

2/25

Belfast

Breakfast @ Merchant Hotel

- Full Merchant Breakfast

- Fruit

- Scrambled Eggs, Smoked Salmon, Soda Bread

Black Taxi Mural Tour | ©Nick C. Bumstead

10am: Belfast Murals Taxi Tour

Walk: Hill Street (for independent boutiques)

Lunch @ Neighbourhood Cafe

- Turkish Eggs

- Beans on Toast

- Brownie

- Cortado

Visit: Cathedral Quarter

Visit: Hill Street

Visit: Titanic Museum

Visit: SS Nomadic

Stay: Merchant Hotel

Cocktails at The Merchant Hotel Cocktail Bar | ©Nick C. Bumstead

6:30pm: Cocktails at The Merchant Hotel Cocktail Bar

- Chocolate (McConnell’s Sherry Cask Whiskey, Coffee-Infused Campari Task Tales, Regal Rogue Vermouth, Dark Cacao, Honey, Chocolate Bitters)

- Grapefruit (Gunpowder Gin, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Grapefruit, Campari Cask Tales, Lemon Sherbet, Lemon Juice)

- Gin Martini

7:30pm: Dinner @ Roam

- Yellowfin Tuna, Lime, Coriander

- Citrus Cured Halibut, Grapefruit, Kohlrabi

- Aged Beef Fillet, Parsnip, Ox Cheek, Burnt Onion

- Salmon, Celeriac, Yuzu, Smoked Butter Sauce

- Wine: Domaine de la Motte (Famille Michaut) 2023 Chablis

2/26

Belfast to Dublin (3 hrs)

Breakfast @ Merchant Hotel

- Full Merchant Breakfast

- Fruit

- Porridge

Brú na Bóinne

11:30pm: Lunch from Silly Sid’s

- Ham & Cheese Toastie

- Ham & Cheese Wrap

12:30pm: Visit Brú na Bóinne (collection of Neolithic passage tombs)

Dublin | Howth

Coffee: Bodega Coffee

Visit:

- Howth Lighthouse

- Howth Cliff Walk

Stay: King Sitric Seafood Bar & Accommodation

Cocktails & Snacks

- Gin Martini with Echlinville Irish Post Still Gin, Dolin Dry Vermouth

- Prawn Cocktail Toyto Crisps

Oysters & Crab Toast at King Sitric Seafood Bar | ©Nick C. Bumstead

7pm: Dinner Reservation @ King Sitric Seafood Bar

- 6 Giga Oysters

- Crab Toast

- Tempura Prawns

- Shrimp Cocktail with Marie Rose Sauce

- Whole Black Sole Meunière

- Wine: Günther Chereau Chateau du Coing de Saint Fiacre 2022 Muscadet

- Redbreast 12 Year

View from the Tate Modern | ©Nick C. Bumstead

London, England

September 8, 2025

I left England in the 1980s, when the food scene in London was not topping many people’s lists. But that all changed and now modern British cuisine is some of the best food in the world with its local produce and seasonality. Of course every other international cuisine can be also found at exceptional levels. There is much to see, do, eat, and drink. Spent a couple of days, a week, a month, and there will still be leftovers. Here are my highlights from years of traveling back to one of my favorite cities.

Shop | Food

Secret Smokehouse in London Fields | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Smoked Fish
Loved by chefs, including Jamie Oliver, Secret Smokehouse is one of two smokehouses in London with PGI status for their London Cure smoked salmon, trout, kippers, and haddock. Stop in on a Saturday for a bagel with smoked salmon, cream cheese, and pickles and watch the local running clubs jog by. Or just pick up pre-packed sliced fish, pâtés, or a fish pie to take home.

Canned Seafood
In the depths of Borough Market is a stall focused on tins of fish. The Tinned Fish Market offers a delightful range of seafood from the British shores and further afield.

Cheesemongers
If you love cheese, there are a couple of London cheese institutions. Neal’s Yard Dairy has a number of shops around the city (the original location is in Covent Garden) and this cheesemonger specializes in aging and selling British and Irish cheeses. Paxton & Whitfield Ltd opened in 1742 as cheese stall, received its first royal warrant in 1850, and now has two shops in London as well as Bath and Canterbury. A visit to the shop on Jermyn Street affords the opportunity to buy some high quality cheese and stroll along the street known for fancy men’s clothing. Or as Winston Churchill is quoted as saying on their website: “A gentleman buys his hats at Locks, his shoes at Lobbs, his shirts at Harvie and Hudson, his suits at Huntsman and his cheese at Paxton & Whitfield.”

Butchers
Among the stalls along Broadway Market sits Hill & Szrok, a family-run butcher some really beautiful premium meat. Browse the window and ask your butcher for advice. Another small, family-run butcher in the east of London is Perry’s, selling British meat, bacon, and sausages. Known for their sausages rolls (the New York Times called them the Rolls Royce of sausage rolls), The Ginger Pig in Borough Market is also a specialty butcher.

Fishmongers
At Steve Hatt Fishmongers, queue up outside along the shop and inspect all the gorgeous seafood you have the option to buy. Fin and Flounder is small in square footage, but large on selection.

Department Stores
The London department stores which have fantastic food departments are the classics. Fortnum & Mason’s food and wine department in the basement is wall to wall high end and luxury all wrapped up in beautiful packaging. You might not do a whole grocery shop here, but it’s well worth it for specialties or gifts to bring home. The food hall at Selfridges is a combination cafe, restaurant, food shop — if you are clothes shopping, pop in for some nourishment. For lotions, oils, and fragrances, don’t miss the French brand, Officine Universelle Buly located on the first floor. Of course, Harrods will be on lots of lists and the food hall is worth the trip alone.

Grocery Stores
For everyday food and drink shopping, a local Waitrose cannot be beaten for the quality, depth, and breadth of products. It’s on the higher end of the scale, think Whole Foods, but it’s better than Whole Foods — in fact, in Richmond, the Whole Foods which was across from a Waitrose closed in March 2024.

Bakeries

Dusty Knuckle Bakery | ©Nick C. Bumstead

The Dusty Knuckle Bakery
A little out of the way in Dalston, but this is such a fun and tasty spot for sweet treats, savory breads, and fantastic sandwiches. In addition, it’s a community initiative helping youth offenders with training and job placement. The Sambal Pork Sarnie and Spring Vegetable with Goat Curd Sarnie did not disappoint.

E5 Bakehouse
Some of the best loaves in London and the queue out the door to prove it. Enjoy London Fields and stroll up Mentmore Terrace, avoiding the throng of joggers from the local running clubs, and prepare yourself to be tempted by everything, including the Hackney Wild, Black Sesame Financier, Brownie, Chocolate Chunk Cookie. They also have books, wine, beer, and other provisions.

Pophams
Several locations with the original on Popham Street in Islington offering perfectly laminated, flaky croissants and creamy espresso. Everyone recommends the Bacon & Maple Croissant Swirl. Pophams Home is next door and sells beautifully curated home goods and pantry goods. Remember your trip to London with an espresso cup, a jar of Pophams jam or chutney.

Gerrard Street in Chinatown | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Kowloon Bakery
Wandering around Chinatowns in any city is always an experience. Gawp at the window display at Kowloon Bakery and pop in to buy a mochi cake and some glutinous rice.

St. John Bakery
Eccles cakes, doughnuts, bread, granola, cookies, and brownies to go from St. John’s two bakery locations.

Shop | Design

Paul Smith on Albemarle Street | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Paul Smith No. 9 Albemarle Street + Paul Smith Westbourne House
Shop for clothes and get inspired for your house and apartment. Paul Smith’s stores always contain his classic style of men’s and women’s clothing, but some also display unique gifts, art, and antiques. At No. 9 Albemarle Street, the basement floor is dedicated to vintage furniture and art. The Westbourne House shop in Notting Hill has a room filled with both Paul’s antiques and other vintage furniture.

Labour & Wait
Started in Shoreditch and now with multiple locations, this old school hardware store not only useful, but elegant and utilitarian products and clothing.

MagCulture
Print media is definitely not dead as has been displayed by MagCulture in Clerkenwell since 2015. Browse the beautiful selection in what feels like a gallery for magazines.

Alfies Antique Market
London is not exactly short of antique shops on from the high end to the low end. This multi-floor antique mall is filled with nearly 100 vendors selling everything from paintings to glassware to miniature collectibles. Don’t miss the Cupio Gallery on the first floor mezzanine for Italian mid-century design, including a wonderful selection of Fornasettis.

Chiltern Street
What used to be a quiet street in Marylebone became a mecca for chic, quiet, elegance with shops like Sunspel for clothing, Monocle Cafe for coffee, Shreeji Newsagents for magazines, Trunk Clothiers for menswear, Cadenhead’s for independent whisky bottlings, as well as an outpost of Labour & Wait.

twentytwentyone
Celebrating 20th and 21st-century design with furniture, lighting, and accessories that will both spark inspiration and desire.

London Undercover Umbrellas
The one thing you are normally guaranteed to need on a trip to London… an umbrella. This shop has two locations on Lamb’s Conduit Street and in Spitalfields. Functional, elegant, and beautiful, these umbrellas will make you look good in the rain.

Shop | Clothing & Design

Alex Eagle Studio
Slightly intimidating from its exterior, but elegant and chic on the inside. Wander round and admire the ceramics, vintage books, jewelry, beauty products, and clothing.

Paper Mache Tiger
Cool and fresh with a mixture of fashionable clothing and design.

Margaret Howell
Refined British style for men, women, and the home. The shop on Wigmore Street in Marylebone is both a clothing shop, but also feels like a design gallery.

Patterns and style at Liberty of London | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Liberty of London
A true icon of the London design stores from the print and pattern collections to the building itself. In the spring and summer of 2025, Liberty celebrated 150 years with a show dedicated to their patterns.

Original Fibres
Casual and stylish British menswear made from low-impact, natural fabrics (linen and wool).

Coal Drops Yard
You could look at this newly created shopping area just north of King’s Cross as a modern mall, but it’s well designed and is filled with shops actually worth visiting. It surely doesn’t look anything like its previous incarnation as a rail warehouse. Be tempted by chocolate from Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse, candles from Earl of East, clothing from Paul Smith, designs from the Conran Shop and Tom Dixon. It’s full of pretty things and an architecturally beautiful space.

Shop | Stationary

Choosing Keeping
Making the stationary nerds (like me) happy with wide selection of pens, paper, cards, and nostalgic products.

Marby & Elm
Whimsical and cute, but also well designed and handmade, this fun shop on Exmouth Market well entertain you with stationary.

Shop | Markets

The Columbia Road Flower Market on Sundays | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Columbia Road Flower Market
A little crowded and very popular, but definitely worth the visit. On a summer Sunday, the Columbia Road Flower Market is quite the spectacle. You can shop for flowers, pop into the wide variety of shops, sip an espresso, slurp on some oysters, nosh on some cakes and bagels. Get there slightly early or it can feel like a bit of a frenzy. If you need provisions, don’t miss Hackney Essentials for E5 Bakery bread, wine, chocolate, preserves. For vintage finds, H.M. Jones is a fun little vintage shop, Vintage Heaven for glassware and homewares, Glitterati for vintage cut glass. For records and wine, check out Idle Moments.

Broadway Market
The Saturday market offers stalls of delicious food with origins around the world and a chance to shop the brick and mortar shops on the street. Fuel up on an espresso from Climpson & Sons Café, then hit up Shrine to the Vine for wine; Hill & Szrok for meat; Fin and Flounder for seafood; Artwords Bookshop, The Broadway Bookshop, and Donlon Books for reading inspiration. Finish up with a leisurely walk along the canal.

Ridley Road Market
This market has been operating in Dalston since the 1880s. What started as a more traditional market has now become a true expression of the melting pot of the local community. Stop at Ararat Bread for Middle Eastern-style flatbreads.

Shop | Wine & Booze

Shrine to the Vine
The wine shop from the team behind Noble Rot, selling a broad range, but very well curated selection of wine.

Hedonism Wines
A ridiculous breadth and depth of wine and liquor is on display on the two floors of this beautiful, modern shop in Mayfair. If you are in the market for Romanée-Conti, or Yquem from 1831, a thirty year old Arbeg, or one of their 200 bottle selection of gins, this is your place for unattainable rarities.

The Vintage House
A fun little shop on Old Compton Street in Soho that’s been around since the 1940s and selling over 1,300 whiskies of many vintages.

Berry Bros. & Rudd
This is about as old school as it gets in London with regards to wine shops. They’ve been in business since the 17th century and the oldest wine and spirits shop in the UK. The creaking wooden floors and vintage bottles are there to prove it.

The Whisky Exchange
Three shops across the city with a deep selection of whiskies and other spirits. Pick up a unique whisky from an independent bottler.

People's Wine Dalston
A fab little wine shop in Dalston (and on Roman Road) and also a wine bar with a focused selection of artisanal, organic and biodynamic French wines. If they still have some, the Domaine Foret Poulsard from the Jura is worth it.

Eat | Lunch

Cold Roast Gloucester Old Spot & Celeriac at St. John Restaurant | ©Nick C. Bumstead

St. John Restaurant
What started on St. John street, Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail mecca, now has three locations all with the same focus on British nose-to-tail cuisine, but each with a slightly different vibe. Still serving some of the best and highest quality British food in London.

Rochelle Canteen
One of the best lunches in London that is hidden behind plain sight in school yard. Press the buzzer outside the Boys’ gate and take your seat in the former bike shed that is Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s (wife of Fergus) restaurant. Modern British cooking with respect for the seasons and the ingredients.

Gymkhana + The Ambassadors Clubhouse + Trishna
London has been known for its Indian food for a long, long time. Gymkhana now has two Michelin stars, is pretty pricey, and is tougher to get a reservation, but lunch there is a fantastic experience. The Ambassadors Clubhouse and Trishna are the newer restaurants from the team. Ambassadors Club celebrates the food and drink from Punjab in a beautifully designed space off Regent Street. The food is impressive and the service operates like a well-oiled machine. Trishna is in Marylebone and takes on Indian Coastal Cuisine.

The Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room | ©Nick C. Bumstead

The Pie Hole / The Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room
A walkup window that overlooks a gorgeous pie making kitchen with marble worktop, copper molds, and chefs working the dough. A whole array of pies are on offer from modern creations like: Poached Lobster & Shellfish and Hong Kong BBQ Pork Puff; to classics like Hand-Raised Pork Pie, Sausage Roll, and Norfolk Black Chicken & Wild Mushroom Pie.

Sweetings
A very old school English seafood restaurant (an original Victorian Fish and Oyster bar) that mostly serves city types, but the food makes up for rubbing elbows with bankers. Start with something smoked (eel, trout, cod roe, or salmon) and save room for some Spotted Dick, Sticky Toffee Pudding, or Baked Jam Roll.

Prawn on the Lawn
Fresh seafood delivered daily from Cornwall and Devon and then artfully plated for your delight. They also have two restaurants in Padstow.

Marksman
Much loved and touted for their Sunday lunch. And much more than a pub. Book ahead and enjoy the ultimate British tradition of Sunday lunch in the quirky, modern design of the upstairs dining room.

Andrew Edmonds
An old school Soho restaurant serving modern European food. They still have hand-written menus that change daily and seasonally. Dig into the wine list to uncover some well-priced vintage bottles.

Kinoko Nametake (marinated mushrooms) at Koya | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Koya
All the menu options at Koya are excellent, but the best move is to show up at 11:45am for an early lunch and order off the breakfast menu. Everything feels very thought out and intentional, just as it should in a Japanese restaurant. The Japanese Breakfast comes with grilled fish, rice, miso soup, and pickles. And if that not enough, definitely order the marinated mushrooms (Kinoko Nametake). A non-traditional mash up is the English Breakfast Udon — a bowl of noodles and broth topped with a fried egg, bacon, and shiitake mushrooms — two classics combined into one.

BAO
The bao buns are perfectly soft and fluffy with flavorful fillings like fried chicken, classic pork, daikon, and prawns. The Taiwanese Fried Chicken Nuggets are so good, you’ll place a second order. There are seven locations around the city, but the Borough Market location, in addition to its dining room, has a walk-up window to place your order. Enjoy your buns watching the crowds explore the market.

Sông Quê Café
The nickname for this section of Kingsland Road in Shoreditch is known as ‘Pho Mile’ and Sông Quê Café delivers on pho and other traditional Vietnamese dishes that won’t break the bank.

See | Sites

The Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Modern & Brutalist Architecture
Resulting from the post-war rebuilding period, there are many magnificent Brutalist buildings around London, including: The Barbican, a large residential complex that is the icon of Brutalist architecture in London; Trellick Tower, designed by Ernő Goldfinger, defines the Notting Hill skyline, and was saved from neglect in the 80s and 90s; National Theatre, designed by Denys Lasdun, opened on the South Bank in 1976, and still putting on an array of performing arts.

Have a weekend stroll around Hampstead Heath with stunning views of the city and then walk passed 2 Willow Road, designed by Ernö Goldfinger in 1939, and is one of the few modernist homes open to the public. Then head over to the Isokon Flats and Gallery, a Bauhaus gem in Belsize Park, where Walter Gropius, Marcel Breuer, László Moholy-Nagy, and Agatha Christie lived.

The Classics
Centuries old, impressive, historical buildings and monuments are abound in London: St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, The Mall, Horse Guards Parade, Tower of London, Churchill War Rooms, Tower Bridge, Royal Observatory Greenwich, The Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens, Royal Albert Hall. If you love your history, any and all of the sites will impress.

Battersea Power Station
Decommissioned in the 70s and 80s, this coal-fired power station was a bit of an eyesore on the south bank on the Thames. After years of debate, analysis, and disrepair, finally became a combination of apartments, retail stores, and restaurants that opened in 2022. The power station is on the cover of Pink Floyd's 1977 album Animals.

See | Art & Galleries

Sir John Soane's Museum | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Sir John Soane's Museum
Walking through the front door into the Sir John Soane’s house in Holborn, you almost expect him to return home at any minute. It’s been preserved and mostly untouched for 200 years. And it’s a jam-packed treasure trove full of collected sculptures, artwork, and Pharaoh Seti’s sarcophagus in the basement. He was one of the 19th century’s finest architects, known for the Bank of England (but his work has mostly been destroyed), Royal Hospital Chelsea, and the Dulwich Picture Gallery, which was the first purpose-built public art gallery in Britain. Don’t rush yourself and don’t miss an inch of the museum.

The Wallace Collection
Crammed to the gills with masterpieces spanning eras and geography: painting, sculpture, furniture, arms, armor, porcelain. All this culture may make you hungry and thirsty and thank goodness for the tranquil courtyard restaurant and café.

The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A)
More often than not on a visit to London, the V&A has an exhibit that draws my attention: Bowie, Fashioning Masculinities, The Great Mughals, Cartier. Check what’s on and book ahead. Can’t wait to visit the new V&A East Storehouse on our next visit.

The National Portrait Gallery
Such a gem of a museum, whether you are viewing the permanent collection or special exhibits. It’s like peering into the eyes of famous people from centuries ago. Recently the The Face Magazine was a fantastic insight into the music and fashions of the 80s and 90s.

The National Gallery
With wall to wall iconic artwork from every century, you could probably spend all day exploring (and eating and drinking). I love the walk from the Central Hall to George Stubbs’s Whistlejacket taking a right to the early Impressionists to the Post-Impressionists.

The Tate Modern
When the Tate Modern opened in 2000 in the converted Bankside Power Station building, the South Bank got an artistic jolt in the arm. Befitting the large industrial setting, the museum is known for its contemporary exhibits. Use the Turbine Hall entrance to fully experience the scale of the building.

Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art
Large museums can have their impact (see the Tate Modern above), but sometimes a small, intimate museum is just what you need. Explore Islington, have lunch at Prawn on the Lawn, and dessert in the garden at the Estorick. Showing exclusively Italian artists (including Modigliani and Di Chirico) at this small gallery over a few floors.

Eat | Dinner

Langoustines & Croquettes at Noble Rot Lamb’s Conduit | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Noble Rot
Not an under-the-radar choice, but lives up to the long list of recommendations for both the wine list and the food. Exploring the wine list can take a while because there are many, many gems on there, but the reward is a fab bottle of wine. And the food menu will excite the taste buds as well.

Brat
Located on the second floor in ultra-hip Shoreditch, but the vide inside is all Basque. While you check-in for your table cast your gaze at the row of Basque Burnt Cheesecakes waiting to be devoured (if you still have room). The wood-fired cooking is what rules at Brat. Definitely start with the Grilled Bread with Anchovy and then pick out some of your favorite seafood that will be given the fire treatment.

Smoking Goat Shoreditch
Modern Thai barbecue from the Brat team. Prepare for the spicy, beautifully balanced spicy. Start with the renowned chicken wings and move on to as many dishes that will satisfy you. The cocktails are fun and the wine list is short, but perfect for the food.

Green Asparagus, Walnut, Corra Linn and Sorrel at Brawn | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Brawn
They’ve been open for 15 years now, but it still feels like an undiscovered neighborhood gem. One of early birds in London’s natural-wine scene and the wine list is still as focused as ever. The handmade pastas are a highlight, but as are all the other nose-to-tail dishes.

Murano
Chef Angela Hartnett is a force of the London restaurant scene with her Michelin-starred Murano and four of the more casual Cafe Murano restaurants. Murano is elegant, refined, and calm, but not overly prissy and fancy. You feel taken care of without being fussed over. The food is elevated, yet still comforting Italian. But befitting its Mayfair location, there is a price tag that accompanies this level of dining.

A Bit Further Afield

The View from Richmond Hill | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Richmond & Kew
Take the District tube line out to Richmond to explore the land of Ted Lasso. Before the TV show, Richmond was founded in 1501 when King Henry VII built Richmond Palace. Walk the lanes of shops and pubs; sit and enjoy the world going by on Richmond Green; take in a play at Richmond Theatre; spend hours exercising with the deer in Richmond Park with the beautiful Isabella Plantation. In and around Richmond, there are many historical buildings and gardens to see: Ham House, Strawberry Hill House & Garden, York House Gardens, Marble Hill, Kew Gardens, Kew Palace, Syon House. The Royal Botanical Gardens Kew is a personal favorite with the Great Pagoda, the Victorian Glasshouses, the giant waterlilies in the Waterlily House, the Princess of Wales Conservatory — keep your eye out for peacocks parading their feathers.

Lunch at The Britannia Pub, serving the classics. Also enjoy a pint at The Victoria Inn (the smallest pub in Richmond) on your way up or down the hill to the park. For fancier fare, check out chef Tom Fraser’s seafood cooking at Scott’s.

The Holburne Museum | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

A Weekend in Bath, England

August 28, 2024

The World Heritage City of Bath is just a quick one and a half hour train ride from central London. It’s steeped in history with both Roman and Georgian delights around every corner. There’s much that Bath offers, but in just a few days, you’ll feel like you’ve walked the city a few times. It’s an ideal long weekend stop.

Stay

No. 15 by GuestHouse
Staying in a classic Georgian row house on an idyllic Georgian street seemed like the appropriate thing to do in Bath and the No. 15 by GuestHouse fit the bill perfectly. It’s a lovely combination of stylish, comfortable, elegant, alive, but also calm. It’s worth checking their offers for the best price and packages. Between breakfast, afternoon tea, the spa, cocktails, and dinner, you could spend all day taking care of yourself in the hotel, but there’s much to see in Bath.

Eat | Breakfast

Full English Breakfast at No. 15 Guesthouse | ©Nick C. Bumstead

No. 15
There is no better way to start the day touring a city than devouring a full English breakfast. If that’s not your jam, there are other options available: Shakshuka, a variety of Benedicts, and even a Veggie Fry Up.

Drink | Coffee

Espresso & Brownie at Colonna & Small's | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Colonna & Small's
Seriously focused on coffee — from the sourcing of the beans to the pouring of the coffee. Their brownies and pastries are an excellent pairing with an espresso.

Picnic Coffee
Catch the afternoon sun (if it’s out) sitting in the light and airy café enjoying a cup of coffee.

Society Café was another spot on our list that we didn't get to.

Eat | Lunch

Fish (Fried Gunard) & Chips with Aioli and Homemade Curry Sauce at The Scallop Shell | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

The Scallop Shell
Classics are classics for a reason and there’s nothing is quiet as British as fish and chips. When it is done well fish and chips can be a true delight. Pre-game your lunch by getting in a good walk beforehand and book a table (yes, book a table for fish and chips because this place gets packed). They serve beautiful, high quality, well-sourced, fresh fish. Don’t skip the appetizers: prawn cocktail, sardines on toast, oysters, mussels. Your best bet is to order a couple of appetizers and share a plate of fish and chips with a side of curry sauce.

Landrace Bakery
If you want to grab something on the run, it doesn’t get better than a sandwich, pastry, and cookie from Landrace Bakery. You will not be disappointed. This is a pure gem of a place that will tempt multiple return visits. They use British grains and have their own flour mill. They also have an upstairs restaurant for lunch and dinner that definitely requires booking in advance.

See | Museums & Sites

The Roman Baths | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

The Roman Baths
You might assume, much like we had, that the Roman Baths are a total tourist trap, but think again. Of course the history is impressive: the temple was built between 60 and 70AD, but the scale and preservation is awe-inspiring. Take your time and enjoy the tour.

The Holburne Museum
Even if you don’t venture into the museum, it’s worth walking from the Pulteney Bridge to The Holbourne. Argyle Street and Great Pulteney Street are Georgian treasures. If you are a Bridgerton fan, this classic Grade I-listed building is the façade of Lady Danbury's house. Strolled around the outside and you’ll discover the very modern extension — I personally love the juxtaposition of the old and new. The Holburne Museum was Bath’s first public art gallery and on display is the collection of Sir William Holburne (1793-1874), the fifth baronet of Menstrie. He inherited his family title and lived with his sisters. It was his wish that his collection be enjoyed by the people of Bath.

Royal Crescent & No. 1 Royal Crescent Museum
The Royal Crescent might be the most famous view in Bath: 30 terraced houses lined in a crescent with a park and sweeping views. There is a hotel right in the middle of the crescent, called the Royal Crescent if you want to visit in luxury. At the eastern end of the crescent is the No. 1 Royal Crescent Museum, a restored townhouse showing what fancy life was like in 18th Century Bath.

Bath Assembly Rooms
Designed by John Wood the Younger in 1769 with music and dancing in mind. It’s a Grade I-listed building that has been through some different uses over time: from cinema to concerts and balls. It’s now owned by the National Trust and used for functions. The Bath Fashion Museum can be found on the lower ground floor.

Bath Abbey
This site has been a place of Christian worship for well over a thousand years and the Abbey has evolved from a Tudor church to the first version of the abbey in 1499 to its restoration in 1620. Tour the Abbey to view the large stained glass windows and stare up at the original vaulted ceiling dating from the early 1500s and completed in the 1860s.

Parade Gardens
Two-and-a-half acres gardens right on the River Avon. Take a stroll, sit on a bench, and watch the River Avon flow by. Across the river you can see the grounds for Bath Rugby Club.

The Pulteney Bridge over the River Avon | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Pulteney Bridge
Bath’s picturesque bridge that spans the River Avon that is lined with shops and cafés. At the eastern end there is a fun little concept store called Found.

Shopping | Food & Drink

New & Old Bond Streets | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Paxton & Whitfield is a small shop dedicated to all things cheese with the iconic original located in London on Jermyn Street; Fine Cheese Company Bath (you’ve seen their cheese biscuits in fancy shops) for cheese and biscuits; Comins Tea for fine single estate teas; Independent Spirit of Bath for craft beer, whisky, and gin;

Bath also has an Independent Market on the third Sunday of the month and a farmers market on Saturday mornings.

Shopping | Style

Berdoulat | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Strolling along Brock Street and up Margaret’s Buildings between The Circus and the Royal Crescent, you’ll find some design gems.

Berdoulat
Berdoulat is everything in a shop that I want: elegance, variety, a specific point of view, and beautiful design. Plus, you can have a pastry with a cup of coffee and stay a while. It was gorgeously renovated after previously being Stoffell and Fortt's grocery store, which was known as the Fortnum’s of the west.

8 Holland Street
Both an antique shop / gallery with a stunning selection and a restored guesthouse with the same design aesthetic. This is the second outpost from Tobias Vernon, an interior designer, with a store on Holland Street in London. It was designed with help from the local firm Berdoulat (same as the store above).

Beau Nash Antique Silverware
More old school and classic than 8 Holland Street, but equally as tempting. There are two shops filled with silver, objects, and furniture. If you find that perfect piece you can’t live without, they deliver worldwide.

Bath Old Books
Vintage (used) and antiquarian (antique) books in a classic little shop. Pop in for the quintessential souvenir from Bath: an antique Jane Austen novel.

For more antiques, stroll through Bartlett Street Antiques Centre; for books, stop into Topping & Company Booksellers; and for Italian glassware, French ceramics, and other beautiful things Nām is a must.

Eat | Dinner

Corkage
Sit on the terrace (which is covered in the off season) and enjoy some wine with some small plate nibbles.

No. 15
If you are staying in the Guesthouse and don’t feel like venturing out, a cocktail in the lounge and dinner downstairs can feel comforting and luxurious. The cocktails span the full range from classic to creative to non-alcohlic and the dinner menu is modern British comfort food.

The Elder
We were tempted by the description of wild British seasonal food by chef / hunter Mike Robinson. It’s always hard to fully appreciate a place on one visit, but our overall experience on this dinner was underwhelming, from the service to the food. But they have since revamped The Elder and now seem to only offer a seven course tasting menu focused on British wild food (with vegetarian options available).

For next time: Upstairs at Landrace because their breads and sandwiches downstairs are so ridiculously good; The Beckford Bottle Shop for small plates, snacks, and a notable wine list; Nova’s Kitchen for Vietnamese food, OAK for their focus on ingredients.

The Holidays

Christmas Carousel | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

The city lights up and becomes festive during the Christmas holidays. Visit the Christmas Market from late November to mid-December, the tree in the Abbey church yard, the Victorian carousel, Pulteney Bridge, and Bath on Ice at Royal Victoria Park.