Northern Ireland

Intro

What this guide isn’t: a tour of the best pubs of Ireland. We did really enjoy some pints in some delightful pubs, but that generally is not our scene.

Just The Facts

Text

The Route

A few days in Dublin, followed by a clockwise tour of Ireland. We missed the middle, but covered the dramatic coastline of Ireland and Northern Ireland.

The Guide

Dublin

Dublin is the most obvious starting point based on the flights, etc. We chose to not rent a car for the first few days in Dublin, and then head back to the airport to rent the car. Obviously, there are some pros and cons to both decisions. We also probably spent one day too many in Dublin relative to the rest of the trip. Not that they were wasted, because it’s a great city to explore.

Stay

We stayed in an Airbnb just off St. Stephen’s Green, which was an ideal, centrally-located spot for walking all around the city. An Airbnb affords you the chance to have a chill cup of coffee and breakfast in the morning, relax before cocktails and dinner, and do some laundry before heading out on the roadtrip. We look at staying at The Shelbourne, The Westbury (which also has The Sidecar, well-known cocktail bar), and The Merrion.

Day One

Get settled in after your flight and have a more relaxing afternoon. We settled into our Airbnb and strolled around the Trinity, St. Stephen’s Green, central area where there’s some great strolling and shopping to be done. For fuel, pop into Kaph, the perfect little spot for a cortado and a financier as a quick break from all the good shopping in the neighborhood. Just along Drury Street and Exchequer Street there is Industry & Co with multiple shops with a focus on home, kids, women’s clothing, as well as a cafe; Irish Design Shop that feels much more modern and interesting that some of the other Irish-focused shops; Fallon & Byrne, a fancy food and wine shop and restaurant with a lovely array of local and international, fresh, prepared, and grocery items, and perfect for picking up some provisions for the Airbnb or some food souvenirs to take home; Costume, for elegant women’s clothing. If it’s raining, stop into Powerscourt Centre, grab a bite or cup of coffee and stroll around the shops, checking out Article for housewares, Muireann B Vintage in the 59 Collective for a very well curated selection of vintage clothing. Nearby is Stable of Ireland, a beautiful shop taking Irish traditions of textiles and creating stylish, modern designs.

If you need some Irish booze or wine, Celtic Whiskey Shop & Wines on the Green has a deep selection of Irish whiskeys and other spirits and very knowledgeable staff; James J. Fox has been selling whiskey and tobacco to Dubliners since 1881 and offers an array of selection of whiskey and cigars, at every price level, and their owned branded 100ml bottles are worth buying; The Corkscrew Wine & Spirit Merchants, next door to the The Westbury Hotel and Stable of Ireland, is worth a stop too.

Dinner

Trinity College Library | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Day Two

If you are up early and are looking for breakfast out, a couple of classics include: Gallagher’s Boxty, known for the traditional Irish potato bread, and Keoghs Cafe, where they’ve been serving Dubliners early morning breakfast for 30 years. Book ahead early for The Book of Kells & Trinity College Library. Everything in Ireland is an “experience” and cynically, it can feel like a bit of con to charge more, but the Book of Kells and the Trinity College Library are iconic visits for a reason. The upfront education provides a good introduction to the a 9th-century, 1,200-year-old illuminated manuscript, which is a true masterpiece. After admiring the book, the walk into the old library is equally stunning. They are currently renovating all the books, but that does not diminish how impressive the room is — it’s one of the best libraries in the world for a reason.

Then walk along Temple Bar, past the classic Temple Bar, which is probably the most recommended pub in Dublin, and check out Indigo & Cloth for a coffee to energize for shopping the two floors of clothing and design, highlighting unique Irish and international designers. Scout is just down the street from Indigo & Cloth, this clothing and lifestyle shop promotes Irish-designed clothing and homewares.

For the history buff, Christ Church Cathedral was founded in 1030 as a Viking church and in the former heart of medieval Dublin with historical curiosities abound. Two great cafés near the next historical stop of St. Patrick’s Cathedral are The Fumbally and Two Pups. The Fumbally has a beautiful artsy, bohemian vibe that’s chill and comforting — definitely get the Fumbally Eggs or a sandwich on some amazing bread. Check out the market section on your way out — it might double how much your spend their though, because it’s an impressive selection of local producers.

Marsh’s Library and St. Patrick’s Cathedral are around the corner from each other and both worth a visit. The cathedral is Ireland’s largest cathedral and the home of the Church of Ireland. Look up at the towering ceilings, look down for the gorgeously tiled floors, and look around at the stained-glass windows, ornate wooden carvings, and stone sculptures. Marsh’s Library was the first public library in Ireland and dates back to 1707, The interior has been beautifully preserved and feels much it did back in the 1700s. Notice the metal cages at the end of the library where they used to lock readers in to prevent theft.

After history in buildings, walk down Francis Street for some antique shopping.

Day Three

14 Henrietta Street Gallery book ahead for a guided tour of the history of thiis beautiful Georgian house, which started as a home for the aristocracy in the 1700s in and finished as a tenement building as late as the 1970s. Well worth the tour to get a history not just of the house, but of the history of Dublin and Ireland.

Jennifer Slattery Irish linen and embroidery in a former butcher shop in Smithfield. Stop in before your reservation at Fish Shop.

National Gallery of Ireland entrance to the permanent collection is free, so take as little or as long as you want to admire the mixture of old and new artwork and architecture.

Eat & Drink

There is some really good grub to be had in Ireland and Dublin did not disappoint. Since we opted to stay in an Airbnb instead of a hotel, we didn’t venture out for breakfast, but a couple of classics were on my list if we had: Gallagher’s Boxty (known for the traditional Irish potato bread) and Keoghs Cafe (they’ve been serving Dubliners early morning breakfast for 30 years).

Two great cafés near St. Patrick’s Cathedral are The Fumbally and Two Pups. The Fumbally has a beautiful artsy, bohemian vibe that’s chill and comforting — definitely get the Fumbally Eggs or a sandwich on some amazing bread. Check out the market section on your way out — it might double how much your spend their though, because it’s an impressive selection of local producers.

For lunch or dinner, Fish Shop is a must and booking is imperative — it’s tiny and always filled. If you are slightly early for lunch, you’d miss the subtle signage, but you won’t miss the line outside. If you are early, pop into Jennifer Slattery’s delightful textiles boutique in a former butcher shop. The food and wine list at Fish Shop is not to be missed.

Loose Canon is a wine bar / shop that serves tasty toasties and natural wine. We escaped the rain and popped in for lunch. We enjoyed a ham and cheese toastie; a harissa cheese toastie; with a glass of Pierre Frick Auxerrois orange wine.

Dinner at Library Street with marinated Turbot head, pork chop, cabbage | ©Nick C. Bumstead

For dinner, Row Wines is a “a hip wine, food and vinyl proposition.” The wine list is natural and organically focused with a fun mix of chillable reds, orange, rosé, red, and white wines that pair beautifully with their snacks and shareable plates. The Connemara oyster with cucumber and ponzu was fab, as was the Kilkee crab rösti, and the gambas. Order bread to mop up all the shrimp juices. The focus at Mister S is live fire cooking with a pretty good wine list. Library Street was a highlight of our Dublin stop. Any menu that has marinated turbot head on it is going to get me excited. As was Comet, an elegant calm restaurant next to the Royal Irish Automobile Club. The Quail roasted on toast with Vin Jaune sauce was recommended by the waitress and was a delight, as was the bottle of Chantereves Bourgogne Blanc.

Coffee

I loved visiting Indigo & Cloth for many reasons (also see the shopping section), but on our second visit, it was pouring with rain outside and we nipped in for some relief. It feels like they really care about their customers.

Kaph is the perfect little spot for a cortado and a financier as a quick break from all the good shopping in the neighborhood.

Shopping | Style & Design

Stable of Ireland taking Irish traditions of textiles and creating stylish designs.

Indigo & Cloth grab a coffee to energize for shopping the two floors of clothing and design, highlighting unique Irish and international designers.

Scout just down the street from Indigo & Cloth, this clothing and lifestyle shop promotes Irish-designed clothing and homewares.

Industry & Co multiple locations with a focus on home, kids, women’s clothing, as well as a cafe. All within a short distance of each other. If you buy some clothing, you get a free cup of coffee at the cafe.

Jennifer Slattery Irish linen and embroidery in a former butcher shop in Smithfield. Stop in before your reservation at Fish Shop.

Irish Design Shop there’s a lot of Irish-focused shops, but takes a more modern vibe over two stories.

Peterson of Dublin Tobacco and pipe shop open since 1874 — old school, but beautifully designed. Even if you don’t smoke a pipe (and who really does these days), they have a fun tote bag.

Hodges Figgis Ireland’s oldest bookshop (established in 1768) and the travel, cooking, fiction sections have an excellent focus on Irish authors.

Francis Street in The Liberties neighborhood is a perfect afternoon stroll to see all the antiques shops.

Shopping | Food & Drink

Fallon & Byrne a lovely array of local and international, fresh, prepared, and grocery items. Not cheap, but minimally worth a quick tour. Excellent selections of salts, coffee, chocolate, and canned seafood. Perfect for picking up some provisions for the Airbnb or some food souvenirs to take home.

Sheridan’s Cheesemongers one of the premier destinations for Irish cheese with many locations in Dublin and around Ireland. Get their expert input, ask for a taste, and pick up some of their own branded condiments to pair with the cheese, such as the chutney for cheese, onion marmalade, or tomato relish.

Celtic Whiskey Shop & Wines on the Green a deep selection of Irish whiskeys and other spirits. Get some guidance before picking out a bottle.

James J. Fox selling whiskey and tobacco to Dubliners since 1881. A deep selection of whiskey and cigars, they also have a house brand. For a quick hotel room sip or a easier way to take home a bottle, check out the 100ml options of Irish whiskey aged in different casks.

The Corkscrew Wine & Spirit Merchants next door to the The Westbury Hotel and Stable of Ireland with a good selection of wines and spirits.

Museums & Sites

The Book of Kells & Trinity College Library everything in Ireland is an “experience” and cynically, it can feel like a bit of con to charge more, but the Book of Kells and the Trinity College Library are iconic visits for a reason. The upfront education provides a good introduction to the a 9th-century, 1,200-year-old illuminated manuscript, which is a true masterpiece. After admiring the book, the walk into the old library is equally stunning. They are currently renovating all the books, but that does not diminish how impressive the room is — it’s one of the best libraries in the world for a reason.

National Gallery of Ireland entrance to the permanent collection is free, so take as little or as long as you want to admire the mixture of old and new artwork and architecture.

Stay

Heading Out of Town | Dún Laoghaire, Sandycove, Dalkey, Killiney

Shop in Monkstown:

- Seagreen

- Salt Cafe

- Avoca Market

Drive to Sandycove

Sandycove:

- Shop in Sandycove (64 Wine for wine, Cavistons Food Emporium for Irish Smoked Salmon)

- 64 Wine

- Domaine de L'Ecu, 'Janus', Chardonnay, Loire, 2022 €31,00

- Marie-Pierre Chevassu-Fassenet 2021 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay €33.25

- See: Forty Foot Public Bathing Pool + James Joyce Tower

Visit: Dillon’s Park

Drive through Dalkey & Killiney (Fancy Neighborhoods)

Heading South to Hook Lighthouse

Lunch: The Grain Store at Killruddery

Visit: Killruddery Gardens & House

Shop @ Bread 41 in Greystones

Drive down coast to Hook Lighthouse

Heading West to Cork

Breakfast at the Seagull Bakery in Dunmore East | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Hookhead to Dunmore

Breakfast @ Seagull Bakery

Walk: Dunmore East Cliff Walk

Visit: Ardmore

See: Ardmore Round Tower

Shop: Ardmore Pottery & Gallery

The Midleton Experience & Shop | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Shop: Midleton Distillery Experience (bought two minis of Redbreast Lustau Edition)

Drive to Cork

Bailed on Marina Market (chaos)

Stay: The River Lee Hotel, Cork

Drinks: Beamish Stout @ The Oval Pub

Heading West to Kenmare

Cork to Blarney Castle

Visit: Blarney Castle

Drive: to Kinsale

Fish & Chips at Fisherman’s Catch in Kinsale | ©Robin Dorian

Lunch at Fisherman’s Catch Stand in Kinsale

- Haddock & Chips

Drive: to Skibbereen to Ballydehob to Mizen Head

On to Kenmare.

Stay: Park Hotel Kenmare

Park Hotel Kenmare

Cocktails @ Park Hotel Kenmare

- Nutty Old Fashioned with Irish Whiskey

- Pomegranate Negroni

Dinner: P.F. McCarthy’s Pub in Kenmare

- Hearty Seafood Soup

- Prawn Skillet

- Veggie Rice Bowl

- Guinness

Wild Atlantic Way | Ring of Kerry

Ring of Kerry to Tarbert Ferry to Killimer via Kilrush, Kilkee to Lahinch.

Snack Shop: Dodi Cafe

Blood Pudding Sausage Roll
Bakewell Slice

Wine Shop @ Dodi Stockroom

Foradori 2024 Manzoni Bianco

Drive Through: Liscannor

Shop: The Burren Smokehouse

Smoked Salmon with Seaweed

Shop @ Ekotree Cashmere & Visitor Centre Ireland

Robin Merino Wool Sweater

Drive Through: Doolin

Seacliff Cottage in Doolin | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Stay: Seacliff Cottage

Hiking Tour of The Burren with Tony Kirby | ©Nick C. Bumstead

9:30am - 12:30pm: Coast of Burren Guided 3 Hour Hike with Tony Kirby

Visit Flaggy Shore + Ballyvaughn

Lunch at Linnane’s Lobster in Ballyvelaghan | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Lunch: Linnane's Lobster Bar

6 Flaggy Shore No. 2 Oysters
Fresh whole Tiger Prawns in Garlic & Chili Butter
Prawn Sandwich (Atlantic Prawns on Soda Bread with Marie Rose Sauce and Salad)

Shop: The Burren Perfumery

Visit: Cliffs of Moher (go left at visitors center)

Stay: Seacliff Cottage

7pm: Dinner @ Homestead Cottage

• ⁃ Wine: Montbourgeau 2019 L’Etoile Chardonnay

Seacliff Cottage to Galway via Gregans Castle Hotel (1hr 27 minutes)

Lunch in Galway at Ard Bia

- Gubbeen chorizo hash, poached eggs, chipotle aioli , sourdough

Coffee: Espresso @ Coffeewerk + Press

Shop: Kindf_olk + The Tweed Project

Drive to Black Rock Diving Boards

Shop: Sullivan’s Country Store (6am - 6pm)

Drive: Dog’s Bay Beach + Clifden

Shop in Clifden: The Whitehorn Gallery (11am - 5pm) + Connemara Hamper (9am - 5pm)

Stay: Ballynahinch Castle Hotel (Check-in: 3:30pm)

3:30pm: Walk the grounds of the hotel

6pm: Dinner @ The Fisherman’s Pub @ Ballynahinch Castle Hotel

- 4 x Ballinakill Bay oysters, Micil poitin mignonette

- Grilled prawns, garlic, tomato and chilli, toasted sourdough

- Ballynahinch Estate venison burger, red onion marmalade, Cashel Blue, chunky fries

- Cod with grilled leeks, celeriac, smoked trout caviar & herb butter sauce

- Wine: Roka’ Liam & Sinead Cabot 2022 Furmint Štajerska Slovenia Podravje + Glass of Bordeaux

2/21

Breakfast @ Ballynahinch Castle

- Classic Irish Breakfast

- Porridge

- Toast & Marmalade

Ballynahinch Castle to Killary Fjord Viewpoint to Westport to Achill Island

Achill Island:

- Keel Beach

- Keem Beach

- Achill Island Kitchen Take Away @ Dooagh

- Almond & Orange Cake

Drive to Downpatrick Head

- Hike to the head

Drive to Ballina past Knocknarea to Strandhill to see Shell’s Cafe and the waves.

Stay: The Address Hotel Sligo (Check-in: 3pm)

7:30pm: Dinner @ Otto Pizzeria & Wine Bar

- Cocktail: Negroni

- West coast crab, potato rosti, pickled fennel, green apple

- Roast squash, Toon’s Bridge straciatella, radicchio leaves,toasted nuts, aged balsamic

- Ricotta & Parma Ham Pizza with (no tomato sauce) whipped ricotta, 18-month DOP parma ham, confit tomatoes, roast garlic, grana padano

- Wine: Barbera

Walk around Sligo

Sligo to Donegal

Drumcliff
Classiebawn Castle
Castle Classiebawn Viewpoint
Mullaghmore to Watch Surfers
Bishops Pool
Rossnowlagh Beach
Donegal

Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) | ©Robin Dorian

Visit / Drive

Muckros Head
Sliabh Liag Viewing Platform
Slieve League Hike
Silver Strand Beach
Glencolumbkille

Shop in Donegal

Kavanagh's SuperValu Donegal

Stay: Lough Eske AirBnB

Dinner: Lough Eske AirBnB

Cocktails: Gin Martini with Echlinville Irish Post Still Gin, Dolin Dry Vermouth, Lemon Twist + Kinnegar Limeburner Pale Ale
Snacks: Mr. Filbert’s Mexican Street Chili Mixed Nuts + O’Donnells Ballymaloe Relish & Cheddar Cheese Flavor Crisp
Organic Irish Smoked Salmon on Toasted Hugo’s Bakery Country Loaf with Butter & Lemon Juice
Cashel Blue Cheese on Toasted Hugo’s Bakery Country Loaf with Sheridans Chutney for Cheese

• ⁃ Wine: Foradori 2024 Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco

2/23

Hann Hats in Donegal | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Shop in Donegal:

- Hanna Hats (bought hat & soap)

Drive around Donegal:

- Crohy Head Sea Arch

- Bad Eddie

- Horn Head / Napoleonic Watch Tower

- Briac. House

- Downings

Shop:

- McNutt of Donegal

Drive / Visit / Hike

- Murder Hole Beach (Hike)

- Fanad Head Lighthouse

Letterkenny

Stay: Radisson Blu Letterkenny

Dinner: Letterkenny @ Yellow Pepper

- Pil Pil Shrimp with Focaccia

- Rump of lamb with champ mash

- Grilled John Dory

- Pint of Murphy’s

- Glass of Kinnegar Limeburner Pale Ale

- Glass of French CabernetYellow Pepper

Walk up Main Street

2/24

Buffet Breakfast @ Radisson Blu Hotel

Letterkenny to Belfast

- Past Londonderry

Visit:

- Dunluce Castle

Giant’s Causeway

- Giant's Causeway

Lunch @ Bothy White Park Bay

- Bothy Sarnie

- Pesto Chicken Sandwich

- Almond Slice

Drive to Belfast

Northern Ireland | Belfast

Stay: Merchant Hotel

6:30pm: Cocktails & Snacks @ Bert’s Jazz Bar

- Irish Old Fashioned

- Japanese Highball

- Far East Side

- Duck & Orange Liver Parfait

- Halloumi

8:00pm: Dinner @ Mourne Seafood Bar

- Natural Carlingfod Oysters

- Peel & Eat Langoustines

- Smoked & Cured Salmon Rillettes

- Sweet & Sour Kilkeel Crab Claws

- Glasses of Alvarinho

9:00pm: Cocktails @ The Merchant Bar

- Orange Cocktail (Redbreast Lustau Whiskey, Lustau Vermouth, Green Chartreuse)

- Fresh Grapefruit & Lemon Sherbet

2/25

Belfast

Breakfast @ Merchant Hotel

- Full Merchant Breakfast

- Fruit

- Scrambled Eggs, Smoked Salmon, Soda Bread

Black Taxi Mural Tour | ©Nick C. Bumstead

10am: Belfast Murals Taxi Tour

Walk: Hill Street (for independent boutiques)

Lunch @ Neighbourhood Cafe

- Turkish Eggs

- Beans on Toast

- Brownie

- Cortado

Visit: Cathedral Quarter

Visit: Hill Street

Visit: Titanic Museum

Visit: SS Nomadic

Stay: Merchant Hotel

Cocktails at The Merchant Hotel Cocktail Bar | ©Nick C. Bumstead

6:30pm: Cocktails at The Merchant Hotel Cocktail Bar

- Chocolate (McConnell’s Sherry Cask Whiskey, Coffee-Infused Campari Task Tales, Regal Rogue Vermouth, Dark Cacao, Honey, Chocolate Bitters)

- Grapefruit (Gunpowder Gin, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Grapefruit, Campari Cask Tales, Lemon Sherbet, Lemon Juice)

- Gin Martini

7:30pm: Dinner @ Roam

- Yellowfin Tuna, Lime, Coriander

- Citrus Cured Halibut, Grapefruit, Kohlrabi

- Aged Beef Fillet, Parsnip, Ox Cheek, Burnt Onion

- Salmon, Celeriac, Yuzu, Smoked Butter Sauce

- Wine: Domaine de la Motte (Famille Michaut) 2023 Chablis

2/26

Belfast to Dublin (3 hrs)

Breakfast @ Merchant Hotel

- Full Merchant Breakfast

- Fruit

- Porridge

Brú na Bóinne

11:30pm: Lunch from Silly Sid’s

- Ham & Cheese Toastie

- Ham & Cheese Wrap

12:30pm: Visit Brú na Bóinne (collection of Neolithic passage tombs)

Dublin | Howth

Coffee: Bodega Coffee

Visit:

- Howth Lighthouse

- Howth Cliff Walk

Stay: King Sitric Seafood Bar & Accommodation

Cocktails & Snacks

- Gin Martini with Echlinville Irish Post Still Gin, Dolin Dry Vermouth

- Prawn Cocktail Toyto Crisps

Oysters & Crab Toast at King Sitric Seafood Bar | ©Nick C. Bumstead

7pm: Dinner Reservation @ King Sitric Seafood Bar

- 6 Giga Oysters

- Crab Toast

- Tempura Prawns

- Shrimp Cocktail with Marie Rose Sauce

- Whole Black Sole Meunière

- Wine: Günther Chereau Chateau du Coing de Saint Fiacre 2022 Muscadet

- Redbreast 12 Year