View from the Tate Modern | ©Nick C. Bumstead

London, England

September 8, 2025

I left England in the 1980s, when the food scene in London was not topping many people’s lists. But that all changed and now modern British cuisine is some of the best food in the world with its local produce and seasonality. Of course every other international cuisine can be also found at exceptional levels. There is much to see, do, eat, and drink. Spent a couple of days, a week, a month, and there will still be leftovers. Here are my highlights from years of traveling back to one of my favorite cities.

Shop | Food

Secret Smokehouse in London Fields | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Smoked Fish
Loved by chefs, including Jamie Oliver, Secret Smokehouse is one of two smokehouses in London with PGI status for their London Cure smoked salmon, trout, kippers, and haddock. Stop in on a Saturday for a bagel with smoked salmon, cream cheese, and pickles and watch the local running clubs jog by. Or just pick up pre-packed sliced fish, pâtés, or a fish pie to take home.

Canned Seafood
In the depths of Borough Market is a stall focused on tins of fish. The Tinned Fish Market offers a delightful range of seafood from the British shores and further afield.

Cheesemongers
If you love cheese, there are a couple of London cheese institutions. Neal’s Yard Dairy has a number of shops around the city (the original location is in Covent Garden) and this cheesemonger specializes in aging and selling British and Irish cheeses. Paxton & Whitfield Ltd opened in 1742 as cheese stall, received its first royal warrant in 1850, and now has two shops in London as well as Bath and Canterbury. A visit to the shop on Jermyn Street affords the opportunity to buy some high quality cheese and stroll along the street known for fancy men’s clothing. Or as Winston Churchill is quoted as saying on their website: “A gentleman buys his hats at Locks, his shoes at Lobbs, his shirts at Harvie and Hudson, his suits at Huntsman and his cheese at Paxton & Whitfield.”

Butchers
Among the stalls along Broadway Market sits Hill & Szrok, a family-run butcher some really beautiful premium meat. Browse the window and ask your butcher for advice. Another small, family-run butcher in the east of London is Perry’s, selling British meat, bacon, and sausages. Known for their sausages rolls (the New York Times called them the Rolls Royce of sausage rolls), The Ginger Pig in Borough Market is also a specialty butcher.

Fishmongers
At Steve Hatt Fishmongers, queue up outside along the shop and inspect all the gorgeous seafood you have the option to buy. Fin and Flounder is small in square footage, but large on selection.

Department Stores
The London department stores which have fantastic food departments are the classics. Fortnum & Mason’s food and wine department in the basement is wall to wall high end and luxury all wrapped up in beautiful packaging. You might not do a whole grocery shop here, but it’s well worth it for specialties or gifts to bring home. The food hall at Selfridges is a combination cafe, restaurant, food shop — if you are clothes shopping, pop in for some nourishment. For lotions, oils, and fragrances, don’t miss the French brand, Officine Universelle Buly located on the first floor. Of course, Harrods will be on lots of lists and the food hall is worth the trip alone.

Bakeries

Dusty Knuckle Bakery | ©Nick C. Bumstead

The Dusty Knuckle Bakery
A little out of the way in Dalston, but this is such a fun and tasty spot for sweet treats, savory breads, and fantastic sandwiches. In addition, it’s a community initiative helping youth offenders with training and job placement. The Sambal Pork Sarnie and Spring Vegetable with Goat Curd Sarnie did not disappoint.

E5 Bakehouse
Some of the best loaves in London and the queue out the door to prove it. Enjoy London Fields and stroll up Mentmore Terrace, avoiding the throng of joggers from the local running clubs, and prepare yourself to be tempted by everything, including the Hackney Wild, Black Sesame Financier, Brownie, Chocolate Chunk Cookie. They also have books, wine, beer, and other provisions.

Pophams
Several locations with the original on Popham Street in Islington offering perfectly laminated, flaky croissants and creamy espresso. Everyone recommends the Bacon & Maple Croissant Swirl. Pophams Home is next door and sells beautifully curated home goods and pantry goods. Remember your trip to London with an espresso cup, a jar of Pophams jam or chutney.

Gerrard Street in Chinatown | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Kowloon Bakery
Wandering around Chinatowns in any city is always an experience. Gawp at the window display at Kowloon Bakery and pop in to buy a mochi cake and some glutinous rice.

St. John Bakery
Eccles cakes, doughnuts, bread, granola, cookies, and brownies to go from St. John’s two bakery locations.

Shop | Design

Paul Smith on Albemarle Street | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Paul Smith No. 9 Albemarle Street + Paul Smith Westbourne House
Shop for clothes and get inspired for your house and apartment. Paul Smith’s stores always contain his classic style of men’s and women’s clothing, but some also display unique gifts, art, and antiques. At No. 9 Albemarle Street, the basement floor is dedicated to vintage furniture and art. The Westbourne House shop in Notting Hill has a room filled with both Paul’s antiques and other vintage furniture.

Labour & Wait
Started in Shoreditch and now with multiple locations, this old school hardware store not only useful, but elegant and utilitarian products and clothing.

MagCulture
Print media is definitely not dead as has been displayed by MagCulture in Clerkenwell since 2015. Browse the beautiful selection in what feels like a gallery for magazines.

Alfies Antique Market
London is not exactly short of antique shops on from the high end to the low end. This multi-floor antique mall is filled with nearly 100 vendors selling everything from paintings to glassware to miniature collectibles. Don’t miss the Cupio Gallery on the first floor mezzanine for Italian mid-century design, including a wonderful selection of Fornasettis.

Chiltern Street
What used to be a quiet street in Marylebone became a mecca for chic, quiet, elegance with shops like Sunspel for clothing, Monocle Cafe for coffee, Shreeji Newsagents for magazines, Trunk Clothiers for menswear, Cadenhead’s for independent whisky bottlings, as well as an outpost of Labour & Wait.

twentytwentyone
Celebrating 20th and 21st-century design with furniture, lighting, and accessories that will both spark inspiration and desire.

London Undercover Umbrellas
The one thing you are normally guaranteed to need on a trip to London… an umbrella. This shop has two locations on Lamb’s Conduit Street and in Spitalfields. Functional, elegant, and beautiful, these umbrellas will make you look good in the rain.

Shop | Clothing & Design

Alex Eagle Studio
Slightly intimidating from its exterior, but elegant and chic on the inside. Wander round and admire the ceramics, vintage books, jewelry, beauty products, and clothing.

Paper Mache Tiger
Cool and fresh with a mixture of fashionable clothing and design.

Margaret Howell
Refined British style for men, women, and the home. The shop on Wigmore Street in Marylebone is both a clothing shop, but also feels like a design gallery.

Patterns and style at Liberty of London | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Liberty of London
A true icon of the London design stores from the print and pattern collections to the building itself. In the spring and summer of 2025, Liberty celebrated 150 years with a show dedicated to their patterns.

Original Fibres
Casual and stylish British menswear made from low-impact, natural fabrics (linen and wool).

Coal Drops Yard
You could look at this newly created shopping area just north of King’s Cross as a modern mall, but it’s well designed and is filled with shops actually worth visiting. It surely doesn’t look anything like its previous incarnation as a rail warehouse. Be tempted by chocolate from Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse, candles from Earl of East, clothing from Paul Smith, designs from the Conran Shop and Tom Dixon. It’s full of pretty things and an architecturally beautiful space.

Shop | Stationary

Choosing Keeping
Making the stationary nerds (like me) happy with wide selection of pens, paper, cards, and nostalgic products.

Marby & Elm
Whimsical and cute, but also well designed and handmade, this fun shop on Exmouth Market well entertain you with stationary.

Shop | Markets

The Columbia Road Flower Market on Sundays | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Columbia Road Flower Market
A little crowded and very popular, but definitely worth the visit. On a summer Sunday, the Columbia Road Flower Market is quite the spectacle. You can shop for flowers, pop into the wide variety of shops, sip an espresso, slurp on some oysters, nosh on some cakes and bagels. Get there slightly early or it can feel like a bit of a frenzy. If you need provisions, don’t miss Hackney Essentials for E5 Bakery bread, wine, chocolate, preserves. For vintage finds, H.M. Jones is a fun little vintage shop, Vintage Heaven for glassware and homewares, Glitterati for vintage cut glass. For records and wine, check out Idle Moments.

Broadway Market
The Saturday market offers stalls of delicious food with origins around the world and a chance to shop the brick and mortar shops on the street. Fuel up on an espresso from Climpson & Sons Café, then hit up Shrine to the Vine for wine; Hill & Szrok for meat; Fin and Flounder for seafood; Artwords Bookshop, The Broadway Bookshop, and Donlon Books for reading inspiration. Finish up with a leisurely walk along the canal.

Ridley Road Market
This market has been operating in Dalston since the 1880s. What started as a more traditional market has now become a true expression of the melting pot of the local community. Stop at Ararat Bread for Middle Eastern-style flatbreads.

Shop | Wine & Booze

Shrine to the Vine
The wine shop from the team behind Noble Rot, selling a broad range, but very well curated selection of wine.

Hedonism Wines
A ridiculous breadth and depth of wine and liquor is on display on the two floors of this beautiful, modern shop in Mayfair. If you are in the market for Romanée-Conti, or Yquem from 1831, a thirty year old Arbeg, or one of their 200 bottle selection of gins, this is your place for unattainable rarities.

The Vintage House
A fun little shop on Old Compton Street in Soho that’s been around since the 1940s and selling over 1,300 whiskies of many vintages.

Berry Bros. & Rudd
This is about as old school as it gets in London with regards to wine shops. They’ve been in business since the 17th century and the oldest wine and spirits shop in the UK. The creaking wooden floors and vintage bottles are there to prove it.

The Whisky Exchange
Three shops across the city with a deep selection of whiskies and other spirits. Pick up a unique whisky from an independent bottler.

People's Wine Dalston
A fab little wine shop in Dalston (and on Roman Road) and also a wine bar with a focused selection of artisanal, organic and biodynamic French wines. If they still have some, the Domaine Foret Poulsard from the Jura is worth it.

Eat | Lunch

Cold Roast Gloucester Old Spot & Celeriac at St. John Restaurant | ©Nick C. Bumstead

St. John Restaurant
What started on St. John street, Fergus Henderson’s nose-to-tail mecca, now has three locations all with the same focus on British nose-to-tail cuisine, but each with a slightly different vibe. Still serving some of the best and highest quality British food in London.

Rochelle Canteen
One of the best lunches in London that is hidden behind plain sight in school yard. Press the buzzer outside the Boys’ gate and take your seat in the former bike shed that is Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson’s (wife of Fergus) restaurant. Modern British cooking with respect for the seasons and the ingredients.

Gymkhana + The Ambassadors Clubhouse + Trishna
London has been known for its Indian food for a long, long time. Gymkhana now has two Michelin stars, is pretty pricey, and is tougher to get a reservation, but lunch there is a fantastic experience. The Ambassadors Clubhouse and Trishna are the newer restaurants from the team. Ambassadors Club celebrates the food and drink from Punjab in a beautifully designed space off Regent Street. The food is impressive and the service operates like a well-oiled machine. Trishna is in Marylebone and takes on Indian Coastal Cuisine.

The Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room | ©Nick C. Bumstead

The Pie Hole / The Pie Room at Holborn Dining Room
A walkup window that overlooks a gorgeous pie making kitchen with marble worktop, copper molds, and chefs working the dough. A whole array of pies are on offer from modern creations like: Poached Lobster & Shellfish and Hong Kong BBQ Pork Puff; to classics like Hand-Raised Pork Pie, Sausage Roll, and Norfolk Black Chicken & Wild Mushroom Pie.

Sweetings
A very old school English seafood restaurant (an original Victorian Fish and Oyster bar) that mostly serves city types, but the food makes up for rubbing elbows with bankers. Start with something smoked (eel, trout, cod roe, or salmon) and save room for some Spotted Dick, Sticky Toffee Pudding, or Baked Jam Roll.

Prawn on the Lawn
Fresh seafood delivered daily from Cornwall and Devon and then artfully plated for your delight. They also have two restaurants in Padstow.

Marksman
Much loved and touted for their Sunday lunch. And much more than a pub. Book ahead and enjoy the ultimate British tradition of Sunday lunch in the quirky, modern design of the upstairs dining room.

Andrew Edmonds
An old school Soho restaurant serving modern European food. They still have hand-written menus that change daily and seasonally. Dig into the wine list to uncover some well-priced vintage bottles.

Kinoko Nametake (marinated mushrooms) at Koya | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Koya
All the menu options at Koya are excellent, but the best move is to show up at 11:45am for an early lunch and order off the breakfast menu. Everything feels very thought out and intentional, just as it should in a Japanese restaurant. The Japanese Breakfast comes with grilled fish, rice, miso soup, and pickles. And if that not enough, definitely order the marinated mushrooms (Kinoko Nametake).

BAO
The bao buns are perfectly soft and fluffy with flavorful fillings like fried chicken, classic pork, daikon, and prawns. The Taiwanese Fried Chicken Nuggets are so good, you’ll place a second order. There are seven locations around the city, but the Borough Market location, in addition to its dining room, has a walk-up window to place your order. Enjoy your buns watching the crowds explore the market.

Sông Quê Café
The nickname for this section of Kingsland Road in Shoreditch is known as ‘Pho Mile’ and Sông Quê Café delivers on pho and other traditional Vietnamese dishes that won’t break the bank.

See | Sites

The Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Modern & Brutalist Architecture
Resulting from the post-war rebuilding period, there are many magnificent Brutalist buildings around London, including: The Barbican, a large residential complex that is the icon of Brutalist architecture in London; Trellick Tower, designed by Ernő Goldfinger, defines the Notting Hill skyline, and was saved from neglect in the 80s and 90s; National Theatre, designed by Denys Lasdun, opened on the South Bank in 1976, and still putting on an array of performing arts.

Have a weekend stroll around Hampstead Heath with stunning views of the city and then walk passed 2 Willow Road, designed by Ernö Goldfinger in 1939, and is one of the few modernist homes open to the public. Then head over to the Isokon Flats and Gallery, a Bauhaus gem in Belsize Park, where Walter Gropius, Marcel Breuer, László Moholy-Nagy, and Agatha Christie lived.

The Classics
Centuries old, impressive, historical buildings and monuments are abound in London: St. Paul’s Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, The Mall, Horse Guards Parade, Tower of London, Churchill War Rooms, Tower Bridge, Royal Observatory Greenwich, The Albert Memorial in Kensington Gardens, Royal Albert Hall. If you love your history, any and all of the sites will impress.

Battersea Power Station
Decommissioned in the 70s and 80s, this coal-fired power station was a bit of an eyesore on the south bank on the Thames. After years of debate, analysis, and disrepair, finally became a combination of apartments, retail stores, and restaurants that opened in 2022. The power station is on the cover of Pink Floyd's 1977 album Animals.

See | Art & Galleries

Sir John Soane's Museum | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Sir John Soane's Museum
Walking through the front door into the Sir John Soane’s house in Holborn, you almost expect him to return home at any minute. It’s been preserved and mostly untouched for 200 years. And it’s a jam-packed treasure trove full of collected sculptures, artwork, and Pharaoh Seti’s sarcophagus in the basement. He was one of the 19th century’s finest architects, known for the Bank of England (but his work has mostly been destroyed), Royal Hospital Chelsea, and the Dulwich Picture Gallery, which was the first purpose-built public art gallery in Britain. Don’t rush yourself and don’t miss an inch of the museum.

The Wallace Collection
Crammed to the gills with masterpieces spanning eras and geography: painting, sculpture, furniture, arms, armor, porcelain. All this culture may make you hungry and thirsty and thank goodness for the tranquil courtyard restaurant and café.

The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A)
More often than not on a visit to London, the V&A has an exhibit that draws my attention: Bowie, Fashioning Masculinities, The Great Mughals, Cartier. Check what’s on and book ahead. Can’t wait to visit the new V&A East Storehouse on our next visit.

The National Portrait Gallery
Such a gem of a museum, whether you are viewing the permanent collection or special exhibits. It’s like peering into the eyes of famous people from centuries ago. Recently the The Face Magazine was a fantastic insight into the music and fashions of the 80s and 90s.

The National Gallery
With wall to wall iconic artwork from every century, you could probably spend all day exploring (and eating and drinking). I love the walk from the Central Hall to George Stubbs’s Whistlejacket taking a right to the early Impressionists to the Post-Impressionists.

The Tate Modern
When the Tate Modern opened in 2000 in the converted Bankside Power Station building, the South Bank got an artistic jolt in the arm. Befitting the large industrial setting, the museum is known for its contemporary exhibits. Use the Turbine Hall entrance to fully experience the scale of the building.

Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art
Large museums can have their impact (see the Tate Modern above), but sometimes a small, intimate museum is just what you need. Explore Islington, have lunch at Prawn on the Lawn, and dessert in the garden at the Estorick. Showing exclusively Italian artists (including Modigliani and Di Chirico) at this small gallery over a few floors.

Eat | Dinner

Langoustines & Croquettes at Noble Rot Lamb’s Conduit | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Noble Rot
Not an under-the-radar choice, but lives up to the long list of recommendations for both the wine list and the food. Exploring the wine list can take a while because there are many, many gems on there, but the reward is a fab bottle of wine. And the food menu will excite the taste buds as well.

Brat
Located on the second floor in ultra-hip Shoreditch, but the vide inside is all Basque. While you check-in for your table cast your gaze at the row of Basque Burnt Cheesecakes waiting to be devoured (if you still have room). The wood-fired cooking is what rules at Brat. Definitely start with the Grilled Bread with Anchovy and then pick out some of your favorite seafood that will be given the fire treatment.

Smoking Goat Shoreditch
Modern Thai barbecue from the Brat team. Prepare for the spicy, beautifully balanced spicy. Start with the renowned chicken wings and move on to as many dishes that will satisfy you. The cocktails are fun and the wine list is short, but perfect for the food.

Green Asparagus, Walnut, Corra Linn and Sorrel at Brawn | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Brawn
They’ve been open for 15 years now, but it still feels like an undiscovered neighborhood gem. One of early birds in London’s natural-wine scene and the wine list is still as focused as ever. The handmade pastas are a highlight, but as are all the other nose-to-tail dishes.

Murano
Chef Angela Hartnett is a force of the London restaurant scene with her Michelin-starred Murano and four of the more casual Cafe Murano restaurants. Murano is elegant, refined, and calm, but not overly prissy and fancy. You feel taken care of without being fussed over. The food is elevated, yet still comforting Italian. But befitting its Mayfair location, there is a price tag that accompanies this level of dining.

A Bit Further Afield

The View from Richmond Hill | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Richmond & Kew
Take the District tube line out to Richmond to explore the land of Ted Lasso. Before the TV show, Richmond was founded in 1501 when King Henry VII built Richmond Palace. Walk the lanes of shops and pubs; sit and enjoy the world going by on Richmond Green; take in a play at Richmond Theatre; spend hours exercising with the deer in Richmond Park with the beautiful Isabella Plantation. In and around Richmond, there are many historical buildings and gardens to see: Ham House, Strawberry Hill House & Garden, York House Gardens, Marble Hill, Kew Gardens, Kew Palace, Syon House. The Royal Botanical Gardens Kew is a personal favorite with the Great Pagoda, the Victorian Glasshouses, the giant waterlilies in the Waterlily House, the Princess of Wales Conservatory — keep your eye out for peacocks parading their feathers.

Lunch at The Britannia Pub, serving the classics. Also enjoy a pint at The Victoria Inn (the smallest pub in Richmond) on your way up or down the hill to the park. For fancier fare, check out chef Tom Fraser’s seafood cooking at Scott’s.

Grote Markt at Night | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Antwerp, Belgium

January 12, 2025

Antwerp is an ideal-sized city to explore for a few days to dip your toes in or go a little deeper and stay a week or more. It has a vibrant restaurant, shopping, and museum scene that will entertain the most cynical of travelers.

Just The Facts

Background

Antwerp is a port city on the River Scheldt with a population of about 510,000 people. The Port of Antwerp is the second-largest seaport in Europe (Rotterdam is the largest) and has been a key part of the country’s trade since the Middle Ages. But its most famous characteristics might be its centuries-old diamond trade, Flemish Renaissance architecture, Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens, and fashions Antwerp Six from the 1980s.

Getting Around

To explore most of the city, walking and biking are the easiest and best options, but there is also the bus and tram system, called De Lijn, as well as Uber and taxis of course. When walking around the city be aware that roads sometime look like pedestrian walkways and they are not. And be wary of all the bikers cycling quickly through the city.

When to Visit

To avoid the crowds and enjoy comfortable weather, spring (March to May) and fall (September to November) are the best times. Although when it comes to the weather, note that this is northern Belgium (Flanders) and the weather is very changeable. There always seems to be some rain in the forecast.

Neighborhoods

Historisch Centrum
The historical center where you’ll find the classic sites (Grote Markt, Cathedral, Groenplaats, Plantin-Moretus Museum). It’s full of quaint little streets and old buildings, which makes for an enjoyable walk around and experience. If you are only here for a couple of days and want to be near the sites, stay here, otherwise stay slightly further afield.

Universiteitsbuurt
The University quarter is east of the historical center and contains several university campuses, which makes it vibrant and active. Discover Rubens' tomb and 18th-century paintings in Saint Jacob’s Church as well as many outdoor cafes.

Sint-Andries
The neighborhood between the historic center and Het Zuid (The South) was originally one of the poorest neighborhoods in the old city. Today Kloosterstraat is home to design stores, antique shops, and cafes. It’s a lively district that is a perfect place to stay.

Theaterbuurt
The Theatre quarter in one of the most varied districts, which includes the bird market, the Saturday market, a range of shopping options from high end to more big-box stores, as well architectural gems.

Nieuw Zuid & Het Zuid
The southern end of the central city, along the river, that is home to the grand avenue of Leopold de Waelplaats where the Royal Museum of Fine Arts is located. Walk along the water to see the newly developed waterfront in Nieuw Zuid where the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Photo Museum are situated.

The Eilandje
New residential projects, the marina, and the Museum aan de Stroom (MAS) [Museum on the River] give this district a very different feel. At the top end is the Havenhuis, the Port Authority of Port of Antwerp-Bruges designed by Zaha Hadid, completed in 2016.

The Stadspark
Once you cross from the Theaterbuurt into The Stadspark neighborhood, things start to spread out a little. The grand renovated Central Station is located in this district, as well as the Stadspark and the Zoo.

Diamond Quarter (Diamantkwartier)
The square mile diamond district that used to be the world’s center for gem cutting and polishing. While much of the cutting and polishing is now completed in other parts of the world, about 80% of the world’s rough diamonds still pass through Antwerp.

Zurenborg
It’s worth walking around this residential neighborhood for an hour or so to experience the glorious mix of architecture styles (Art Nouveau, Gothic Revival, Neo-Renaissance, Greek Revival, Neoclassical, British Tudorbethan). The main streets are Cogels Osylei, Waterloostraat, and Transvaalstraat.

Groen Kwartier
Within the Berchem district is a neighborhood born from a restored 19th-century military hospital. The buildings have been turned into apartments, the chapel into a restaurant (The Jane), and an Augustinian convent into a hotel (August). There’s a modernness and calmness to the area. Also within the vicinity is PAKT, which feels like a hidden secret filled with restaurants, coffee shops, and cafes.

Where to Stay

Visit the historical center, but stay elsewhere. We found an AirBnB on Vleminckveld on the edge of Sint-Andries and Theaterbuurt, which was like an ideal location to feel more like a local, but close enough to walk to everything we wanted to see and do. Nearby is the Botanic Sanctuary, a beautiful looking, high-end hotel which feels like it’s in its own enclave and Hotel Julien, a 21 room charming townhouse with a modern, minimalist vibe. Another fancy hotel, further afield is the August, which was highly recommended, but for a first time visitor to Antwerp, might be a bit too far from the action.

DRINK | Coffee

Coffee & Chocolate Chili Cake at Rush Rush | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Me & My Monkey
Before your walk and shopping down Kloosterstraat, start with a coffee at this funky, friendly, and chill coffee bar on Oever. The coffee is served in vintage cups from flea markets.

Caffenation / Caffenation Blue
This is the coffee shop that really started the specialty coffee scene in Antwerp. They roast their own beans and attract all the young coffee fans.

Rush Rush Coffee
A fun spot for coffee and food at a forked intersection in the Zurenborg district (worth visiting for the architecture). The brunch menu is extensive, but it’s just as enjoyable to relax at an outdoor table with a cup of coffee and a piece of cake — assuming it’s not raining.

SHOP | Chocolate & Pastries

Goossens
This tiny bakery has been tempting locals and tourists since 1884. It’s so small that there seems to be a line even when there really isn’t. You’ll be happy to have a little time to choose from all the sweet and savory options on display. Don’t forget to take a second or two to appreciate beautiful interior design. Be tempted by everything, Antwerp is a fabulous walking city after all.

Broodatelier
An artisanal bakery created by three friends producing sweet and savory breads and pastries. Buy one of their loaves for your hotel room or apartment and snack on a sausage roll while walking along the street.

Chocolatier Del Rey
A chocolatier and bakery near the Central Station and the Diamond District. The display cases are filled with all kinds of treats: chocolates, pralines, macaroons, marzipan, cookies, pastries. The chocolates have the perfect balance of rich chocolate to exotic flavors. We also picked up some Apérostaafjes, delightful savory, crispy pastry sticks to pair with cocktails.

SHOP | Markets

Exotic Market
The large Saturday morning market at the Theaterplein outside the Hetpaleis offers a huge array of shopping, browsing, and eating options: clothing, flowers, produce, seafood, meat, bread, spices, and prepared foods. We shopped for food in the morning, picking up some vegetables and fresh seafood, and came back for an early lunch of Belgian classics (shrimp, whelks, and oysters). You are really spoilt for choice.

Vogelenmarkt (Bird Market)
The bird market is a hold over from centuries gone by. We walked through the many stalls of pretty generic clothing, housewares, etc, wondering if we would actually see live birds. And just as we turned the corner onto Graanmarkt, expecting to head home, we found the several stalls with birds. It’s a fun little scene.

Brocantwerpen
Brocant translates to second-hand. This is a renowned flea market held about 6 to 10 times a year (on the last Wednesday of the month from April through September) at the Grote Markt. It may have been the time of day (later) or the time of year (late September), but it was a bit underwhelming, but made up for by the glorious location.

SHOP | Wine & Booze

Books & Booze
Telling stories and drinking is an age old combination delightfully brought together at this little shop. The selection of books and wine / spirits have been beautifully (and sometimes humorously) curated. There’s a definite passion here. I asked for a local gin and after listening to some entertaining stories, I took home the Strange Donkey London Dry Gin. There is also a location in Ghent.

Amber Bottle Shop
Cool vibe, nerdy wine selection — this little natural wine shop / bar is tucked into a small space on Schermersstraat. Some of the wines are imported directly, but everything follows their natural ethos. They also have a few tables to enjoy wine and snacks there.

EAT | Lunch or Dinner

BBQ Cabbage & Vegetarian Dan Dan Noodles at Caminoi | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Camino
Open for lunch and dinner, but lunch at this modern Asian spot on the corner of a park, really revived the body and mind after our day of travel. The food is clean and refined, but also comforting and spicy. Dig into sashimi with Vietnamese dipping sauce, BBQ cabbage, Dan Dan Vegetarian noodles with mushrooms and wash it down with a ginger mint lemonade and a glass of natural wine. Their sister restaurant is Osaka (see below).

Mr. Pickles
A lovely locals-vibe respite from the touristy Grotemarkt. Whether you need an afternoon sit-down for coffee and cake or a more substantial lunch, Mr. Pickles hits the note. And while the sandwiches have a fun array of punchy flavors, they are definitely substantial. There’s a calm elegance to the whole experience, even when it’s crowded.

Frites with Mayonnaise & Piccalilli | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Frites Atelier
Having some frites in Belgium is pretty much a requirement. Frites Atelier has upgraded the frites stand experience. It may seem a little crowded and cramped, but they are organized and efficient. The frites are crispy, hot, and made to order. Mayonnaise is the classic, but don’t miss the other exciting options like Piccalilli or the more substantial toppings: Yakitori Chicken, Indo Peanut, Flemish Beef Stew.

Whelks & Grey Shrimp with Mayonnaise and Muscadet at Oesterbar at Saturday’s Market | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Oesterbar at Saturday’s Exotic Market
This oyster bar at the Saturday Market really packs them in. We got there early and picked a spot at the bar to watch all the preparations, but there are tons of tables. It’s all about the seafood, both raw and fried, along with wine and bubbles. Oysters and muscadet — perfect! By the time we left, the sun was shining and it was jammed.

Nordic 31
Not a classic Flemish restaurant, but the classics from Scandinavia have been brought to Antwerp via Nordic 31. The overlap is the seafood of course. When it comes to the Smørrebrød, they recommend two per person, but we had three between the two of us and left room for a cardamom bun. The highlights were the house-made pickled herring with pickled beats and the North Sea shrimp with a soft boiled egg.

SEE | Museums

If you are in Antwerp and Belgium for more than a couple of days and you love museums, it’s probably worth getting the Museum Pass which costs €59 and is valid for a year. Many of the museums in Antwerp are included.

Salvador Dalí’s “Landscape with a Girl Skipping Rope” [1936] at KMSKA (Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp) | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Plantin-Moretus Museum
This printing museum that’s on the UNESCO World Heritage list tops all the recommendations lists for a reason. It’s fantastic. Put your doubts aside and visit. It’s a combination of the 16th century mansion of the Plantin-Moretus family and their printing company that ran until the 19th century. They were the powerhouse of printing for centuries and the museum contains books, two of the world’s oldest printing presses, paintings, archives.

MAS (Museum aan de Stroom)
This museum sticks out in the Eilandje neighborhood as an island of modernity. Start with a trip to the roof for a beautiful panoramic view of the city. To the north is the vast port and to the south the city center sprawls out before you. On your way up the escalators take note of the exhibitions on each floor and enjoy them all on your way down. The roof terrace is free to visit without a museum ticket.

Sint-Pauluskerk (St Paul's Church)
Not the most obvious entrance to find (it looks like the entrance should be Nosestraat and Zwartzustersstraat, but it’s on Sint-Paulusstraat through a fairly subtle entrance). Finding it is the hard part, the easy bit is enjoying the treasure trove of artwork from the baroque period, including Rubens, Van Dyck, and Jordaens.

KMSKA (Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp)
The grand dame of the museums in Antwerp was reopened in 2022 after an 11-year refurb. The classical exterior is a cloak to the ultra-modern interior. And the way the art is displayed matches the same duality — Flemish masters are hung alongside contemporary sculptures. It can challenge the mind and body a bit with the maze of rooms and organization, but it’s a feast for the eyes and senses.

Rubenshuis
Closed when we visited in late 2024 due to renovations, but the garden was open. Ruben’s home is a lavish 17th-century mansion that has been a school, prison, warehouse in its history before becoming the museum. The garden with a flowing fountain is a lovely calming experience, even if it’s raining.

MoMu (Fashion Museum Antwerp)
Opened in 2002, MoMu has the world’s largest collection of contemporary Belgian fashion. The most recent autumn exhibition “Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor“ was fun, quirky, and interesting. It’s a quick visit, but worth it.

Museum Mayer van den Bergh
A dark neo-Gothic house turned museum on Lange Gasthuisstraat and next door to high-end fashion store Verso. Fritz Mayer van den Bergh was a 19th-century art dealer and collector of Flemish artwork from the Middle Ages to the 18th century. The museum was purpose built to house his collection after his death in 1901. If you visit early in the morning, you might be lucky enough to have the collection of diverse artwork to yourself.

FOMU (Photo Museum Antwerp)
Part of the redevelopment of the Nieuw Zuid neighborhood, the Photo Museum was once a warehouse. On our visit the Cindy Sherman exhibit was spread over multiple floors, but they often have multiple exhibits on show. And the gift shop is a fun stop on the way out.

Museum De Reede
Right on the water across from Het Steen Castle, a small museum that opened 2017 displaying mostly works on paper (lithographs, engravings, etchings, wood prints, drawings), with a focus on three artists: Francisco Goya, Félicien Rops, Edvard Munch. Munch’s black-and-white lithograph of The Scream is an obvious highlight, but the prints from other artists than the three focused artists really stood out.

DIVA, museum voor diamant, juwelen en zilver
A museum dedicated to diamonds, jewelry, and silver that at times can feel a little bit like a promotional space for the diamond industry, but overall provides an educational background, while also displaying very pretty and intricate jewelry pieces and silver artifacts. This museum opens before the Museum De Reede, so it’s possible to easily visit both before an early lunch.

SEE | Sites

Sint-Annatunnel
Such an elegant art deco blend of engineering and design. Opened in 1933 as the method for bicycles and pedestrians to cross the Scheldt River (Waasland Tunnel was built for motor traffic). St. Anna’s Tunnel still has vintage vibes and even if you don’t need to cross the Scheldt River, it’s worth taking the wooden escalators down the two levels.

Cogels-Osylei
In the Zurenborg district, Cogels-Osylei is gorgeous residential neighborhood filled with architectural gems in a variety of styles: Belle Epoque, Art Nouveau, Neo-Gothic, neoclassical, Tudor.

Walking along the waterfront in Nieuw Zuid | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Nieuw Zuid
Take stroll down the waterfront along the Scheldt River which has been redeveloped with broad walkways and places to hangout. Along the way down to Nieuw Zuid from Sint-Annatunnel check out the Zebrahuis at Goedehoopstraat, which was the first contemporary building on the river front. This black-and-white striped building was designed by Bob Van Reeth. Nieuw Zuid sits next to the river where railway tracks used to exist and has been designed with sustainability in mind. Sixty percent of the land will be for greenery, parks, gardens, and play areas.

Diamond Quarter
It’s a bit of a drab warren of streets, but worth a quick walk through to see where most of the world’s diamonds pass through. The main streets are Vestingstraat and Hoveniersstraat. Chocolatier Del Rey is on Appelmansstraat — explore the district while eating pralines.

SHOP | Fashion & Style

Fashion is one of the key identities of Antwerp and has been that way since the The Antwerp Six came to fame in the 1980s. They were a group of fashion designers (Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs, Marina Yee) that studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts and became known as the Antwerp Six in the press after their impact at London Fashion Week in 1986. They were relatively unknown at the time; they drove a van from Antwerp to London; and the reporters couldn’t even pronounce their names. Fashion still plays a key part in exploring Antwerp, both with the remaining members of the Six (Demeulemeester, Van Noten, and Van Bierendonck), as well as new, modern labels and stores.

Modepaleis Dries Van Noten | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Modepaleis Dries Van Noten
It feels a bit like entering a temple when you step into Modepaleis Dries Van Noten. Even if you are not into fashion stroll around the store and up the stairs to the men’s department. It feels quiet, elegant, and luxurious.

Ann Demeulemeester
Just across the street from Royal Museum of Fine Arts on the bustling Leopold de Waelplaats. In addition to her beautiful women’s and men’s clothing, they also sell perfume and stunning homewares.

Verso
Art gallery, fashion museum, or shop? A high-end, chic luxury fashion-focused store, in a restored 16th century mansion, selling designers like Prada, Gucci, and Dior.

Essentiel Antwerp
Bright, fun, eclectic women’s clothing home-grown in Antwerp. There are a number of locations around the city (and one in New York City too).

Bellerose
With a number of stores across Belgium, France, and the Netherlands, this store sells fashion forward, but practical women’s and men’s clothing and accessories. If you under-packed for your trip to Belgium, meaning you forgot your raincoat, this could be a perfect spot to stock up.

Ganterie Boon
Looking for the perfect pair of gloves? This family-run shop has been selling gloves since 1884.

SHOP | Design

The Fornasetti room at Donum | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Donum
Gorgeous design pieces in a beautiful space. Donum showcases some of the best interior design brands (Fornasetti, Cassina, Knoll, Missoni) from around the world in the first floor of the former National Bank of Belgium building.

The Recollection
A fun, quirky, unique collection of homewares, cosmetics, gifts, accessories, and furniture, which fits perfectly on Kloosterstraat.

Wouters & Hendrix
Traditional and modern jewelry designed and handmade in their Antwerp atelier. The displays in the windows are stunning and it looks intimidating, but there are pieces at many prices.

EAT | Dinner

Dinner at Ciro’s (Black Beauty (Horse) with Pepper Cream Sauce, Frites with Mayonnaise) | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Ciro’s
Classic and old school and still staying strong. It seemed a little quiet at the beginning of our 7pm reservation, but an hour in, the restaurant was bustling and crowded. The food is not creative, but there’s comfort and love in the local specialties. Start with shrimp croquettes, marrow on toast, smoked eel, or gravlax; move on to steak or horse fillet, if you are feeling more adventurous, or another classic of eel in green sauce, don’t miss the frites and mayonnaise; and finish with a Dame Blanche (vanilla ice cream with whipped cream and warm chocolate sauce). Definitely book ahead.

Le John
Elegant, sophisticated, yet relaxed — it really feels like you are having dinner at your cool friend’s house. Some classify Le John as a wine bar, but it definitely gives off more restaurant-vibes. The wine list is worth the visit, as is the food. The food menu tilts modern Italian with burrata, pasta, risotto, fish. The wine list is chock full of interesting natural wine classics from around the world.

Osaka
Hip clientele, a futuristic design, with Japanese-inspired food, and a long list of natural wines — well, not really a list because you choose your bottle of wine from the large, glass-fronted wine coolers. The plates are small and perfect for sharing. With all the peppy, Asian flavors you’ll keep on ordering until you are satiated. Don’t miss the Toast Sardine, Toro Crudo, Kimchi & Comté Croquettes. Book ahead.

Tomatoes, Wild Herbs, Black Garlic at Victor | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Victor
An industrial-vibed bistro filled with locals who come for a relaxed evening to enjoy serious, yet rustic food and a drink menu filled with interesting wines and ciders. Start with a glass of Belgian sparkling wine. Our whole meal was fantastic: bread and butter; buttermilk fried chicken; tomatoes with wild herbs and black garlic; tortelloni with basil and celeriac; and a bottle of Domaine des Marnes Blanches 2022 Cotes du Jura Savagnin Les Molates.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Strange Donkey London Dry Gin Martini | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Antwerpse Handjes from Goossens | ©Nick C. Bumstead

Strange Donkey London Dry Gin
I can’t help but always bring home a bottle of local booze from my travels — each pour at home reminds me of the trip. The Strange Donkey is a London Dry Gin made in Antwerp, whose name comes from a local legend. The local villagers decided to leave the decision as to where to build a church up to a donkey. Wherever it stopped to rest, they built the church. 17 of the 23 ingredients are grown in Vremde (which in the local dialect means ‘strange’), near Antwerp.

Elixir d'Anvers Liqueur
Crafted in Antwerp (Anvers) since 1863 using plants and herbs, including gentian, spice, caramel, peppery alcohol, root beer, brown sugar, chopped herbs, liquorice and vanilla.

Antwerpse Handjes (Hands)
They are a traditional symbol of Antwerp with a legend based on a Roman solder called Brabo who cut off the hand of the giant Antigoon who imposed a tax for each ship that wanted to enter the port. Brabo threw the severed hand in the Scheldt river. In Dutch hand throwing is “hand-werpe,” which over time became Antwerpen. The reality though might be that the city is on the tidal river Scheldt which deposits a lot of sludge on its banks — the continuous build-up of sludge in Dutch is “aangeworpen”. You can find handjes in both biscuit (cookie) form and of the chocolate variety.

Belgian Chocolates
An obvious, yet very worthwhile and enjoyable gift.

Homewares by Ann Demeulemeester
Taking Ann Demeulemeester’s characteristic style of chiaroscuro (an effect of contrasted light and shadow) and translating it into porcelain. Purchase from Serax.

Diamonds & Jewels
Antwerp is still the center of the diamond world, so why not take home a memento that will last forever.

Day Trips

Walking along the River Leie in Ghent | ©Nick C. Bumstead

There’s a good chance you’ll fly into Brussels and therefore will know that Antwerp is only 45 minutes on the train. But in addition to Brussels, Ghent is only an hour train ride from Antwerp and makes for an excellent day trip. Ghent is a medieval treasure, but also a university town and cultural hub, which gives a vibrancy. Bruges, which is an hour and a half train-ride, is also a beautiful medieval city with canals and is known at the Venice of Belgium, but can feel a bit more touristy than Ghent.

Don’t forget the north… visit Europe’s largest port, Rotterdam, which is 30 minutes north of Antwerp, and the Hague, on the North Sea and home to the International Court of Justice, which is an hour and twenty minutes.

Stockholm, Sweden

September 1, 2024

The charming capital city of Sweden is spread across 14 islands (archipelagos) and delights at every bridge crossed. Most visitors seem to stay for three days and head off to their next Nordic destination, but it’s worth digging a little deeper to fully appreciate what the city has to offer, beyond Abba, Ikea, and the Nobel Prize.

Just the Facts

Background

It is not known exactly when Stockholm was founded, but the earliest historical mention is in 1252. It quickly became the royal and administrative center of the country, but didn’t officially become the capital until 1634. By the end of the 19th century, Stockholm’s population was 300,000 and as of 2024 was 1,719,600. The original center of the city, Gamla Stan is still well preserved with buildings from the 16th and 17th centuries, including the Royal Palace. Today, the city is Sweden’s major industrial hub.

Neighborhoods

Gamla Stan: translates to “Old Town” and is the most touristy of the neighborhoods, but also has some of the most preserved medieval heritages in Europe.
Södermalm: the neighborhoods for creatives, which means it’s the neighborhood for cool shops, coffee shops, and hip vibes.
Djurgården: in the 16th century, about the only thing you’d find here was royal recreation and hunting. It was opened up to the public by Gustav III and then became a central location for museums (Skansen, Gröna Lund, the Vasa Museum and ABBA The Museum) as well as a large public park.
Östermalm: the elegant, more upscale, part of town; for New Yorkers, the equivalent to the Upper East Side.
Vasastan: a more residential neighborhood with a more local feel.

Getting Around

There are many ways to get around Stockholm: boat, bus, metro (tunnelbana), trains, trams, taxi, Uber, bike, and walking. Despite being spread out over many islands, it’s very a very manageable walking city.

When to Visit

The most popular time to visit is the summer, when you’ll experience the peak weather (and peak crowds). We visited in the off season, in October, and it was definitely chilly, but it was a quieter experience.

Where to Stay

Staying in an AirBnB always allows the opportunity to shop for local ingredients and cook at “home.” We found a great apartment in Östermalm, which was ideally located for a farmers market, shops, and a quieter, albeit upscale vibe. And while Gamla Stan is delightful to visit and walkthrough, the vibe felt a little too touristy. A hipper neighborhood and where we had some of our favorite meals was Södermalm.

In addition to the AirBnB, we also stayed at the Radisson Collection Strand Hotel for a couple of days. It’s right on the water and has a lovely breakfast buffet in the mornings. For something for fancy and boutiquey, the Ett Hem looked fantastic, and out of town on the beach, the Ellery Beach House would be a fun stay.

EAT | Breakfast & Lunch

Breakfast at Stora Bageriet | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Stora Bageriet
Close to Berzelii Park and the waterfront, this bakery / café is ideal for breakfast, lunch, or snack (fika). Opt for the classic morning bun or cardamom bun, but you won’t go wrong with a smörrebröd, such as smoked salmon with pickled vegetables, or a soup such as pea and mint. They also have a second location in Vasastan.

EAT | Lunch

Lunch @ Rosendals Trädgård | Photo Credit: ©Robin Dorian

Rosendals Trädgård
This is a pure Stockholm experience, situated in the middle of the park on Djurgården island. The greenhouse café has indoor seating in the greenhouse and outdoor seating on the patio and in the garden. Much of the food is grown in the gardens and is a real treat.

800 Grader Slice Shop
It feels a little weird to come to Stockholm and have pizza, but when the slices are this good, it’s worth it. It’s a tiny joint in Södermalm (one of the hipper parts of town) with just a few tables and a focused menu with 7 different pizza choices, including classics like margherita, pepperoni, bianca, and more creative slices, as well as wine and beer. The pizza crust is super thin and comes out crispy and charred from the oven.

Smorrebrod Options at Tysta Mari | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Östermalms Saluhall
This food hall is a temple to high end Swedish food with food stalls selling both ingredients (seafood, meat, vegetables, sweets) and prepared foods as well as sit down restaurants. Wander round and take your pick from some of the best ingredients Stockholm has to offer. Highlights include: Tysta Mari, Nybroe Smorrebrod, Lisa Elmqvist Restaurang,

Shop | Style

Svenskt Tenn | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Svenskt Tenn
If you love beautifully designed things, this place is for you. We were addicted to stopping into this shop for daily design inspiration. Founded in 1924 by Estrid Ericson, their longtime art director Josef Frank designed many pieces of furniture, lighting, and fabrics. His name is all over the place.

Grandpa | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Grandpa
One of the hipper clothing stores in Stockholm with both clothing and homewares offerings.

Stutterheim Rain Coats
Both practical and stylish, a Stutterheim rain coat is an Stockholm souvenir that will protect you not only from the Swedish rainy days, but the rains back home too.

Singular Society
Part of the H&M group, selling soft and stylish mens and womenswear as well as Scandi housewares. There are two prices on the tags, a membership price and a non-members price. If you have a local address, become a member and get significant discounts.

L'Usine Bleue
Nothing Scandi about this cool little shop in Södermalm, just stylish French workwear.

Skultuna
Founded by King Karl IX in the year 1607, this classic Swedish brand sells jewelry and home decor (candlesticks, vases, figurines) in a variety of metals.

IKEA
Started in the 1940s in a small Swedish town and now a global furniture juggernaut. It’s still fun to stop into an IKEA in its original location.

Designtorget
A fun and interesting range of home furnishings, kitchenware, postcards, books, etc. from Swedish designers.

Bobo Glassware
Super thin and elegant glassware made in Stockholm. You can find the glasses used at cocktail bar Röda Huset and restaurant Brasserie Astoria. You can make an appointment at their showroom or see a subset of their selections at Nordiska Galleriet 1912, a high end Scandinavian furniture and design store.

Shop | Food

Pärlans Konfektyr
Elegant, pretty, and tasty as well. Flavored caramels are their specialty and the local combination of liquorice and caramel is a real winner. Their shop in Södermalm is full of temptations stacked in the gorgeous boxes, but you they are sold all over town. Indulge while you are there, bring some home for yourself, but don’t forget friends and family as well.

Chokladfabriken
Chocolatier Martin Isaksson creates high-end chocolates with classic flavors, but also Swedish ingredients like sea buckthorn, gin, and dried meadow hay.

Östermalms Saluhall
Super high end ingredients available in the center of town in a beautiful food hall.

Farmers Markets
The Farmers Own Market takes place on Saturdays in both Östermalm and Södermalm with a range of stalls with local meats, vegetables, cheeses, etc. In There is also a Östermalm street market around the Karlaplan park just down the street.

Shop | Booze & Wine

Systembolaget
The only way to buy wine and spirits in Stockholm is at one of the state-sponsored stores: Systembolaget. It’s not hard to find a store (there are about 25 of them), but be aware that the hours are pretty specific. If you are looking for a fancier bottle, some of the stores have a more specialty section. Not all the stores have the same selection and some are better than others. My preferred store was at Norrlandsgatan 3. Even though Stockholm is touted as an expensive city, because it’s still in Europe, the wines seem reasonably priced as compared to the US.

See | Museums

Stockholm is rich with culture and museums and whether you have two days or two weeks, it doesn’t disappoint.

Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde | Photo Credit: ©Robin Dorian

A perfect day in Stockholm would be walking around Djurgården, checking out a few museums and having lunch at Rosendals Trädgård. There is a long list of museums to choose from: Nordiska Museet, Vasa Museum, Liljevalchs, SpritMuseum, ABBA Museum, Skansen, Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde, Thielska Galleriet. Aquarium, Snuff & Match Museum, Baltic Sea Science Center.

Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde
Formerly Prince Eugen’s residence (1865–1947) and now an art museum and sculpture garden. Both the interior and exterior are elegant and gorgeous and well worth a visit.

Vasa Museet
One of the more unique museums in Stockholm. The Vasa is a 17th-century 64-gun warship that sunk on its maiden voyage (of 20 minutes) in front of large crowds who came to watch. It was recovered in 1961 and housed in its current location in 1990. Obviously the nearly fully intact Vasa is the highlight of the museum, but the displays around the museum are fascinating.

Fotografiska
The original of the Fotografiska museums with other locations in New York (now closed), Berlin, and Shanghai. A contemporary museum with a focus on photography. Plan time to have lunch at the restaurant on the top floor that overlooks the water. In the summer, take the Fotografiska boat right to the front door.

Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Carl Eldhs Ateljémuseum
For something a little different, in a more locals part of town. The museum is located in the studio of sculptor Carl Eldh, a prominent 20th century artist.

Moderna Museet
Walk over the Skeppsholmsbron bridge with gilded crown in the middle and head up the hill on Skeppsholmen Island to the contemporary and modern art museum. Beautiful works of art from Swedish and international artists and a café and restaurant with views of the city.

See | Archipelagos

Stromma Archipelago Tour
Tour the archipelagos in a classic, vintage boat. Whether you opt for a ride to Drottningholm Palace, a half day tour, or a full day thousand island tour, it’s worth getting out on the water — it’s almost a Stockholm requirement.

Eat | Lunch & Dinner

Pizza at Solen | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Solen
Take a ride, walk, train south to the Slakthus neighborhood, the former meatpacking district, and now home of the Avicii Arena (the golfball-like indoor arena) and Tele2 Arena (hosting football matches and concerts). Serving a range of Mediterranean, Middle-eastern, and South American cuisines, some of which is cooked in a wood-fired oven or over open flames. The decor is a blend of chic industrial and modern.

Fika & Candy

Fika is the glorious Swedish habit of taking some time during the day (morning or afternoon) to meet up at a café for a coffee and some cake. Classic Swedish fika include: cardamom or cinnamon buns, Princess Torte, Dammsugare (the classic Swedish vacuum cleaner), Chokladbollar (chocolate balls coated with shredded coconut), Småkakor (small cookies), Shortbread Butter Cookies, Mazarin (almond tarts), Bärtårta (berry tart), Kardemummakaka (cardamom cake), Rulltårta (roll cake). There are many, many places in Stockholm worth enjoying your daily Fika.

Fabrique
Founded in 2008, with numerous spots around Stockholm for fika, especially the cardamom buns, but also bread and other pastries. There are also outposts in New York and London.

Café & Bageri Pascal
If you walk past these bakeries at certain times, it might look like a stroller parking lot (inside as well). But that’s because the locals love these spots for a fika break. Some of the best pastries and coffee in town.

Drop Coffee
Serious about their coffee with excellent espresso and other coffee drinks — the pastries are up to scratch as well.

Also to try: Green Rabbit (from Matthias Dahlgren), Vete-Katten (the gold standard of Stockholm's traditional cafés).

See | Local Sites

Stockholm Stadsbibliotek (Public Library)
Designed by Swedish architect Gunnar Asplund in the style of Swedish Grace. Obviously if books are your thing, browse around and enjoy the collection, but no matter your interest, don’t miss the rotunda, which feels like a temple to the book.

For lots of local history, walk the bridges over to Helgeandsholmen and then Gamla Stan to tour The Royal Palace, Tessin Palace, The Royal Armoury, Riksdag (Stockholm’s Parliament House), and Storkyrkan (a medieval cathedral) — they are all very close to each other. If you just want some royal souvenir swag to take home, skip the tour and hit the Royal Palace shop.

Relax | Spa

Yasuragi Japanese Spa & Restaurant
Just a taxi ride away from the city center, discover your zen place with idyllic views and peaceful tranquillity at this combination hotel, spa, and restaurant. An ideal day trip even in the colder months. A day package includes full access to the Japanese baths, saunas, activities (such as a sound journey or yoga), as well as a Japanese lunch.

Drink | Cocktails

The Mountain Birch at Röda Huset | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Röda Huset
On the second floor and overlooking Sergel Fountain, this bar is ranked 31 in the World’s 50 Best Bars and deservedly so. The cocktails are all Nordic focused using Swedish produce. For a boozy twist on a classic, order the Mountain Birch, a Martini variation flavored with mountain birch oil and spruce. The Rhubarb & Figs is also worth a try with cold-pressed rhubarb flavored with Campari and gin and topped with a foam on roasted fig leaves.

In addition to Röda Huset, there are more bars from the World’s 50 Best Bars list in Stockholm, including: A Bar Called Gemma, Tjoget (which also is a restaurant in addition to a cocktail bar). The bartender who served us at Röda Huset recommended Lucy’s Flower Shop, Le Hibou in the Bank Hotel, Paradiso, and the Hernö Gin Bar. She also recommended the wine bar Tyge & Sessil.

Eat | Dinner

Pointed Cabbage with Chicken Liver Capers, Buckwheat, Chicken Jus at Bar Agrikultur | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Bar Agrikultur
A small, cosy wine bar located in Södermalm offering a range of dishes made with seasonal Swedish ingredients. The food is excellent and perfect for sharing. The wine list is filled with interesting and well priced bottles. They keep some seats for walk-ins, but I’d book ahead because it gets crowded.

Kagges
Yes it’s located in the most touristy section of Stockholm, Gamla Stan, but it’s still a great spot. The food is modern Scandinavian, but in a comforting way, not a cold, stuffy, tweezery way. We sat at the counter, and were glad we did, because you can witness all the kitchen action, which feels a bit more intimate, like hanging out at the counter of a friend’s kitchen. The wine list doesn’t disappoint either. And you are allowed to write on the wall in the bathroom.

Cafe Nizza
Another small spot in Södermalm, which is worth booking ahead because we saw several hopeful diners turned away at the door. The emphasis here is on southern France and northern Italy. They have a nifty little wine list with small production wines. The snacks are perfect to enjoy with an aperitif (vermouth or spritz) — a tin of anchovies always delights. The main menu is small, but focused with a few main dishes and pastas (they are known for their fermentata cacio e pepe).

Brasserie Astoria
From the street, Brasserie Astoria doesn’t look that interesting, but once you walk in and head down the stairs, you realize there is a large two-story restaurant scene happening (it used to be a cinema). The menus are filled with classics: cocktails, an extensive wine list, and French dishes like tartar, gougères, snails, mussels, duck frites. There are some creative twists, but there is a comfort in the classics.

Mathias Dahlgren Matbaren
This was our splurge night, and while it was still expensive, it was nowhere near as expensive other fancy places in town. It feels upscale, but with a casual vibe. And I loved the flexibility of the ordering: you order one course at a time and stop when you are satisfied. The food consists of lots of fun twists: hotdog with truffle, potato emulsion, roasted onion; mushroom croquettes with truffle; butter fried chantarelles with 63° egg, porcini purée; steamed bun with Adobo pork belly. You can also choose a menu along with pairings, if that’s your thing. The wine list is expansive and intimidating, but there are some gems in there.

Restaurang Oxenstiernan
Perfectly local for us in Östermalm as it was just down the street from our rented apartment and located in Krubban's park / playground. It’s housed in a historic building from the 18th century, but the food is a modern interpretation of Swedish classics, using local and sustainable products, and a no-waste philosophy. Even the plates, glasses, and flatware are made by local designers. I even found a favorite wine on their list, the Frantz Saumon Montlouis Mineral +.

Take Home

Gin or Akvavit from Stockholm Bränneri
The gin is a Nordic take on a traditional dry gin, but not in a too floral, untraditional way. The akvavit is infused with dill flower, caraway, fennel seeds, and elderflower, as well as juniper and coriander. Carry them home (or buy it at home, both are also available at Total Wine), freeze them, and pair them with some smoked salmon and dill.

Glasses
Buy either the Dragga for cocktails or Nubbe for aquavit from Bobo.

Napkins from The Royal Palace Gift Shop
You don’t actually have to visit the Royal Palace to shop at the gift shop. In addition to cocktail napkins, they have all kinds royal-type gifts.

Kalles Original
Found everywhere and Sweden, it’s been a classic since 1954. Coe roe spread that is typically served with boiled eggs, on rye crackers, or used in sandwiches.

The Holburne Museum | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

A Weekend in Bath, England

August 28, 2024

The World Heritage City of Bath is just a quick one and a half hour train ride from central London. It’s steeped in history with both Roman and Georgian delights around every corner. There’s much that Bath offers, but in just a few days, you’ll feel like you’ve walked the city a few times. It’s an ideal long weekend stop.

Stay

No. 15 by GuestHouse
Staying in a classic Georgian row house on an idyllic Georgian street seemed like the appropriate thing to do in Bath and the No. 15 by GuestHouse fit the bill perfectly. It’s a lovely combination of stylish, comfortable, elegant, alive, but also calm. It’s worth checking their offers for the best price and packages. Between breakfast, afternoon tea, the spa, cocktails, and dinner, you could spend all day taking care of yourself in the hotel, but there’s much to see in Bath.

Eat | Breakfast

Full English Breakfast at No. 15 Guesthouse | ©Nick C. Bumstead

No. 15
There is no better way to start the day touring a city than devouring a full English breakfast. If that’s not your jam, there are other options available: Shakshuka, a variety of Benedicts, and even a Veggie Fry Up.

Drink | Coffee

Espresso & Brownie at Colonna & Small's | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Colonna & Small's
Seriously focused on coffee — from the sourcing of the beans to the pouring of the coffee. Their brownies and pastries are an excellent pairing with an espresso.

Picnic Coffee
Catch the afternoon sun (if it’s out) sitting in the light and airy café enjoying a cup of coffee.

Society Café was another spot on our list that we didn't get to.

Eat | Lunch

Fish (Fried Gunard) & Chips with Aioli and Homemade Curry Sauce at The Scallop Shell | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

The Scallop Shell
Classics are classics for a reason and there’s nothing is quiet as British as fish and chips. When it is done well fish and chips can be a true delight. Pre-game your lunch by getting in a good walk beforehand and book a table (yes, book a table for fish and chips because this place gets packed). They serve beautiful, high quality, well-sourced, fresh fish. Don’t skip the appetizers: prawn cocktail, sardines on toast, oysters, mussels. Your best bet is to order a couple of appetizers and share a plate of fish and chips with a side of curry sauce.

Landrace Bakery
If you want to grab something on the run, it doesn’t get better than a sandwich, pastry, and cookie from Landrace Bakery. You will not be disappointed. This is a pure gem of a place that will tempt multiple return visits. They use British grains and have their own flour mill. They also have an upstairs restaurant for lunch and dinner that definitely requires booking in advance.

See | Museums & Sites

The Roman Baths | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

The Roman Baths
You might assume, much like we had, that the Roman Baths are a total tourist trap, but think again. Of course the history is impressive: the temple was built between 60 and 70AD, but the scale and preservation is awe-inspiring. Take your time and enjoy the tour.

The Holburne Museum
Even if you don’t venture into the museum, it’s worth walking from the Pulteney Bridge to The Holbourne. Argyle Street and Great Pulteney Street are Georgian treasures. If you are a Bridgerton fan, this classic Grade I-listed building is the façade of Lady Danbury's house. Strolled around the outside and you’ll discover the very modern extension — I personally love the juxtaposition of the old and new. The Holburne Museum was Bath’s first public art gallery and on display is the collection of Sir William Holburne (1793-1874), the fifth baronet of Menstrie. He inherited his family title and lived with his sisters. It was his wish that his collection be enjoyed by the people of Bath.

Royal Crescent & No. 1 Royal Crescent Museum
The Royal Crescent might be the most famous view in Bath: 30 terraced houses lined in a crescent with a park and sweeping views. There is a hotel right in the middle of the crescent, called the Royal Crescent if you want to visit in luxury. At the eastern end of the crescent is the No. 1 Royal Crescent Museum, a restored townhouse showing what fancy life was like in 18th Century Bath.

Bath Assembly Rooms
Designed by John Wood the Younger in 1769 with music and dancing in mind. It’s a Grade I-listed building that has been through some different uses over time: from cinema to concerts and balls. It’s now owned by the National Trust and used for functions. The Bath Fashion Museum can be found on the lower ground floor.

Bath Abbey
This site has been a place of Christian worship for well over a thousand years and the Abbey has evolved from a Tudor church to the first version of the abbey in 1499 to its restoration in 1620. Tour the Abbey to view the large stained glass windows and stare up at the original vaulted ceiling dating from the early 1500s and completed in the 1860s.

Parade Gardens
Two-and-a-half acres gardens right on the River Avon. Take a stroll, sit on a bench, and watch the River Avon flow by. Across the river you can see the grounds for Bath Rugby Club.

The Pulteney Bridge over the River Avon | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Pulteney Bridge
Bath’s picturesque bridge that spans the River Avon that is lined with shops and cafés. At the eastern end there is a fun little concept store called Found.

Shopping | Food & Drink

New & Old Bond Streets | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Paxton & Whitfield is a small shop dedicated to all things cheese with the iconic original located in London on Jermyn Street; Fine Cheese Company Bath (you’ve seen their cheese biscuits in fancy shops) for cheese and biscuits; Comins Tea for fine single estate teas; Independent Spirit of Bath for craft beer, whisky, and gin;

Bath also has an Independent Market on the third Sunday of the month and a farmers market on Saturday mornings.

Shopping | Style

Berdoulat | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

Strolling along Brock Street and up Margaret’s Buildings between The Circus and the Royal Crescent, you’ll find some design gems.

Berdoulat
Berdoulat is everything in a shop that I want: elegance, variety, a specific point of view, and beautiful design. Plus, you can have a pastry with a cup of coffee and stay a while. It was gorgeously renovated after previously being Stoffell and Fortt's grocery store, which was known as the Fortnum’s of the west.

8 Holland Street
Both an antique shop / gallery with a stunning selection and a restored guesthouse with the same design aesthetic. This is the second outpost from Tobias Vernon, an interior designer, with a store on Holland Street in London. It was designed with help from the local firm Berdoulat (same as the store above).

Beau Nash Antique Silverware
More old school and classic than 8 Holland Street, but equally as tempting. There are two shops filled with silver, objects, and furniture. If you find that perfect piece you can’t live without, they deliver worldwide.

Bath Old Books
Vintage (used) and antiquarian (antique) books in a classic little shop. Pop in for the quintessential souvenir from Bath: an antique Jane Austen novel.

For more antiques, stroll through Bartlett Street Antiques Centre; for books, stop into Topping & Company Booksellers; and for Italian glassware, French ceramics, and other beautiful things Nām is a must.

Eat | Dinner

Corkage
Sit on the terrace (which is covered in the off season) and enjoy some wine with some small plate nibbles.

No. 15
If you are staying in the Guesthouse and don’t feel like venturing out, a cocktail in the lounge and dinner downstairs can feel comforting and luxurious. The cocktails span the full range from classic to creative to non-alcohlic and the dinner menu is modern British comfort food.

The Elder
We were tempted by the description of wild British seasonal food by chef / hunter Mike Robinson. It’s always hard to fully appreciate a place on one visit, but our overall experience on this dinner was underwhelming, from the service to the food. But they have since revamped The Elder and now seem to only offer a seven course tasting menu focused on British wild food (with vegetarian options available).

For next time: Upstairs at Landrace because their breads and sandwiches downstairs are so ridiculously good; The Beckford Bottle Shop for small plates, snacks, and a notable wine list; Nova’s Kitchen for Vietnamese food, OAK for their focus on ingredients.

The Holidays

Christmas Carousel | Photo Credit: ©Nick C. Bumstead

The city lights up and becomes festive during the Christmas holidays. Visit the Christmas Market from late November to mid-December, the tree in the Abbey church yard, the Victorian carousel, Pulteney Bridge, and Bath on Ice at Royal Victoria Park.